Those familiar with oysters are likely aware that the northern U.S. coasts are famous for their delicious shellfish. Enthusiasts often rave about the Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East, while the Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West garner similar acclaim.
However, bring up Southeastern oysters, and the response is often a grimace or a shake of the head. Oysters from warmer waters are dismissed as inferior. I must admit, I was once among those skeptics.
Yet, an unexpected experience with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach in Florida changed my perspective entirely. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered dedicated entrepreneurs striving to elevate the status of Southern oysters, contribute to their communities, and improve the surrounding ecosystems.
I was warmly invited to spend a couple of days working on their farms. Armed with rubber boots and generous amounts of sunscreen, I set off for the coastal waters of the Atlantic and Gulf.
Day One: Exploring the Gulf
On a beautiful morning, Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. As his colleague, Reid Ballard, guides us to their oyster lease, Smith recounts how he and his wife Maura stumbled into oyster farming, casually thinking, “Why not give it a shot?”
“Our family loves seafood, so it felt like a natural choice,” Smith shares, gesturing towards the sparkling waters and clear skies. “And frankly, the office view is unbeatable.”
Most oyster farming in the Southeast is conducted in estuaries, referred to as “off-bottom” culture, where tidal flows constantly refresh the water’s nutrients. Floating cages hold mesh bags containing oysters at different growth stages.
Today’s job involves harvesting. Bringing up a cage and extracting a compressed bag proves to be quite labor-intensive. The cages become habitats for various marine life, with crabs, seaweed, and small fish thriving around them. Smith observes, “Our farm has matured into a floating reef.”
The contents of the bags undergo a tumbling process in a rotating cylinder, which sorts the smaller oysters while directing the larger, ready-to-harvest ones. Some of these smaller ones will be given to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, supporting the wild populations essential for these waters’ health. Smith emphasizes the distinction: “Cultivation is for our tables; restoration is for the ecosystem.”
This labor-intensive task allows for deeper conversations. Ballard shares his passion: “Growing an organism that sequesters carbon, cleans water, and fosters habitat growth has made me realize the immense responsibility we share in keeping our environment healthy.”
In Smith’s words, “It’s a joy and privilege to run a business that spreads positivity. Have you ever seen anyone frown while eating oysters?”
Day Two: A Journey to the Atlantic
At a dock on the Indian River Lagoon, I am welcomed by Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish. As we head out over the pristine waters, she shares her long-standing interest in aquaculture that began when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at the age of 14. With a Bachelor of Science degree backing her passion, she expresses joy in her profession. “Being out on the boat early in the morning, surrounded by ospreys, dolphins, and manatees is magical.”
Back at the dock, her team begins the process of sorting and separating; damaged oysters are tossed into the shallow waters where fish thrive. Mariano highlights the local impact of their farm. “The oysters establish a remarkable vertical habitat for juvenile organisms; it’s a micro-ecosystem. Plus, we’ve been able to create numerous jobs for people in our area.”
The Obstacles to Overcome
Dealing with mortality events and complex regulations poses challenges, but inclement weather remains the most significant obstacle. Hurricanes can devastate oyster farms; Smith at Calusa experienced a total loss of a year’s production due to Hurricane Helene. “It requires tenacity, hard work, innovation, resilience, and flexibility. We just have to forge ahead regardless,” he states.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, led by Executive Director Adrianne Johnson, offers support to local farmers. She passionately states, “Shellfish farmers are among the hardest working and most innovative people you can find. Our goal is to elevate this burgeoning industry in the South and encourage everyone to be part of it. Taste the difference of a Southern oyster while supporting local growers.”
Despite the ongoing challenges, Ballard from Calusa captures the sentiment shared by many farmers: “I wouldn’t trade my job for anything.”
This piece initially appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (U.S. edition).
