If you’re at all familiar with oysters, you’ll recognize that the northern U.S. coastlines are famous for their mouthwatering shellfish varieties. Seafood lovers rave about the Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast while celebrating the Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast.
However, the mere mention of Southeastern oysters often prompts disdain, with many dismissing them as inferior due to their warmer environments. I must admit, I was among those skeptics.
That changed when I came across the Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered a dedicated group of entrepreneurs committed to revitalizing the reputation of Southern oysters, enhancing community value, and improving the local ecosystem.
Invited graciously to spend a couple of days at the oyster farms, I packed my rubber boots and slathered on sunblock, excited to explore the waters of the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day one: On the Gulf
I’m greeted by Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company on a stunning early morning in South Tampa Bay. His colleague, Reid Ballard, steers us to their designated area. Smith recounts how he and his wife Maura stumbled upon oyster farming and thought, “Why not?”
“My family is seafood-oriented, so it seemed a natural progression,” he explains, indicating the shimmering waters and clear skies. “And the view from the office is hard to beat.”
In the Southeast, most oyster farming occurs in estuaries, where tides continuously replenish nutrient levels. Ahead of us float cages containing mesh bags that hold oysters at various growth stages.
The main focus today is harvesting. Retrieving a cage and extracting a flattened bag is more physically demanding than anticipated. Various marine life clings to the cages, with seaweed, crabs, and small fish present in abundance. “Our farm now resembles a floating reef,” Smith observes.
As the bags are processed through a rotating sorting device, smaller oysters find their way back to the water, destined for a local restoration initiative called Oyster River Ecology that aims to bolster wild populations essential for maintaining healthy waterways. Smith distinguishes between the two: “Cultivation” relates to consumption, while “restoration” focuses on environmental enhancement.
This somewhat monotonous scraping and sorting also offers insights into the personal side of this journey. Ballard expresses his enthusiasm: “Growing creatures that sequester carbon, clean water, and boost habitats has made me realize how much work still needs to be done for environmental cleanliness.”
Smith encapsulates the experience: “Finding a job that spreads joy in people’s lives is a genuine pleasure. Do you ever see a photograph of someone eating oysters without a smile?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
As I arrive at the dock on the Indian River Lagoon, Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish greets me warmly. As our boat glides over the clear waters, she shares how her interest in aquaculture was sparked during her teenage years as a volunteer at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. Her Bachelor of Science degree enhances her enthusiasm for this field. “I relish the early mornings on the boat, absorbing the ambiance—the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air,” she reflects.
At the dock, her team begins sorting the harvest; any damaged oysters are returned to the shallows, attracting various fish species looking for a meal. Mariano highlights the local impacts of the farm. “The oysters generate a remarkable vertical habitat for younger organisms; indeed, the farm is its own unique ecosystem. Moreover, we’ve created job opportunities within our community for individuals of all demographics.”
The Challenges
Weather conditions pose the greatest challenges for farmers; hurricanes can devastate entire harvests. Smith from Calusa recalls the destructive impact of Hurricane Helene that obliterated a full year’s worth of labor. “It requires dedication, innovation, and flexibility. We always find a way to adapt and persevere,” he attests.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association plays a supportive role within the community. Its Executive Director, Adrianne Johnson, emphasizes their goals: “Shellfish farmers are among the most hardworking, innovative people I know. We aim to elevate this exciting and growing industry in the South and encourage everyone to join us. Support local farmers by trying Southern oysters and experience the difference.”
Despite the numerous hurdles, Ballard from Calusa articulates the sentiments of many farmers: “I wouldn’t swap this career for anything else.”
This piece was first published in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (U.S. edition).
