For those familiar with oysters, the northern shores of the United States are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish varieties. Enthusiasts rave about the Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast and extol the virtues of Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the western regions.
However, when the conversation shifts to Southeastern oysters, reactions often include scrunched noses and disapproving shakes of the head—warm-water oysters are deemed inferior, far from worthy of a place on a chilled ice platter. I must admit, I was once among those skeptics.
That changed when I had a chance encounter with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, which introduced me to a previously unrecognized realm of shellfish. During an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I met dedicated entrepreneurs eager to rejuvenate the Southern oyster’s standing, create economic opportunities for their communities, and contribute positively to the environment.
Invitations were generously extended to immerse myself in the workings of the oyster farms for a few days. Armed with rubber boots and sunscreen, I eagerly made my way to the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day one: On the Gulf
It’s a stunning early morning as Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His young associate, Reid Ballard, navigates us to their leasehold while Smith shares that he and his wife Maura serendipitously stumbled upon the idea of oyster farming and thought, “We could do this!”
“My family has always loved seafood, so this path felt natural,” Smith adds, gesturing to the serene waters and azure skies. “Besides, the view from the ‘office’ is unbeatable.”
Oyster farming in the Southeast typically employs “off-bottom” techniques in estuarine waters, where tides regularly replenish nutrients. Floating cages bobbing before us contain mesh bags filled with oysters at different growth stages.
This day’s main objective is harvest time. Hoisting a cage and retrieving a flattened bag proves to be a demanding endeavor. Marine life clings to the cage structures, with seaweed, crabs, and small fish abundant. As Smith puts it: “Our farm has become like an artificial reef.”
The oysters are sorted through a rotating perforated cylinder, which separates the smaller ones from those ready for harvest. The smaller oysters will be donated to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, aimed at bolstering the wild populations crucial to the ecosystem’s health. Smith differentiates between the two terms: “cultivation” is for consumption, while “restoration” focuses on environmental benefit.
This somewhat laborious task of cleaning and sorting allows for deeper discussions about the lifestyle it entails. Ballard shares his passion: “Farming an organism that sequesters carbon, filters water, and fosters habitat growth has made me realize the extent of work needed to keep our environment healthy.”
Summing it up, Smith states, “Finding a business that positively impacts people’s lives is incredibly rewarding. Do you ever see photos of individuals not smiling while eating oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
A dock along the Indian River Lagoon is where I meet Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our boat glides over the clear waters, she enthusiastically shares her lifelong interest in aquaculture, sparked as a 14-year-old volunteer at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. Her academic background in the field enhances her enjoyment of this career. “I cherish the early mornings on the boat, absorbing the sights and sounds… from ospreys to dolphins and the manatees surfacing for air,” she enthuses.
Back at the dock, her crew readies themselves, separating and sorting oysters. Any damaged ones are discarded into the shallows, where various fish species gather to feed. Mariano reflects on the many benefits the farm brings to the community: “The oysters provide an incredible vertical habitat for juvenile organisms; the farm has truly become its own ecosystem. Plus, we’ve generated numerous jobs within our community for individuals of all ages.”
The Challenges
Challenges faced by oyster farmers include mortality events and complex regulations, but the weather remains the greatest hurdle. Hurricanes can devastate farms; Smith of Calusa experienced a year’s worth of work lost to Hurricane Helene. “This requires persistence, hard work, creativity, resilience, and adaptability. We always find a way to persevere,” he asserts.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association offers vital community support, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson stating their mission: “Shellfish farmers are among the hardest working, most innovative, and resilient individuals I know. We aim to uplift this emerging Southern industry and encourage people to become part of it. Try a Southern oyster, support local farmers, and taste the difference.”
Despite the numerous challenges, Ballard from Calusa voices the sentiment of his fellow farmers: “I wouldn’t exchange this career for anything.”
This article was initially published in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
