For anyone familiar with the world of oysters, it’s common knowledge that the northern United States is celebrated for its exquisite shellfish varieties. Enthusiasts rave about the Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, while the Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast receive their fair share of admiration.
However, when the topic shifts to oysters from the Southeastern regions, a dismissive attitude often arises, characterized by scrunched noses and disapproving shakes of the head. Oysters from warmer waters considered inferior? That’s not what I’d choose for my ice-cold platter. I confess, I was among the skeptics.
Then, a fortunate meeting with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, transformed my perspective. During an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered a dedicated group of entrepreneurs determined to elevate the reputation of Southern oysters, foster community value, and promote environmental sustainability.
I received warm invitations to spend a couple of days engaging hands-on with the oyster farms. Armed with rubber boots and sunscreen, I eagerly ventured out to the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day one: Exploring the Gulf
As dawn breaks, Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His assistant, Reid Ballard, steers our boat toward their lease area. Smith shares that he and his wife Maura practically stumbled into the world of oyster farming, thinking, “Why not give it a shot?”
“My family has always enjoyed seafood, so it felt like a natural pursuit,” Smith reflects, gesturing to the sparkling waters and clear skies. “Besides, you can’t beat this office view.”
In the Southeast, most oyster cultivation occurs “off-bottom” in estuarine waters where tides continuously enrich the water’s nutrients. Floating cages filled with mesh bags containing oysters at different growth stages bob in the water ahead.
Your main duty today is to harvest oysters. Retrieving a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be quite labor-intensive. Various sea creatures cluster around the cage, with seaweed, crabs, and little fish in abundance. Smith notes, “Our farm resembles a buoyant reef now.”
The contents of the bags are sifted through a rotating perforated cylinder that sorts the smaller oysters and directs the harvest-ready ones. Some of the smaller oysters will support a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, to bolster wild oyster populations crucial for water health. Smith distinguishes between the types: “cultivation” focuses on consumption, whereas “restoration” benefits the ecosystem.
As we tackle the meticulous task of sorting and scraping, personal insights emerge. Ballard expresses his dedication: “Cultivating an animal that captures carbon, cleanses water, and supports habitat development has really highlighted for me how much effort is needed to maintain a clean environment.”
Summarizing the experience, Smith adds, “Finding a career that brings such joy to others is an invaluable opportunity. Do you ever see anyone not smiling while indulging in oysters?”
Day two: Journeying on the Atlantic
At a dock along the Indian River Lagoon, I am greeted by Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our skiff glides over the crystal-clear waters, she shares that her passion for aquaculture began when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at just 14 years old. With a scientific background, her love for her job is evident. “I cherish early mornings on the boat, immersing myself in the sights and sounds… the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air.”
Back at the dock, her team suits up and begins sorting through the oysters; those that are damaged are returned to the water, where an array of fish eagerly feed. Mariano notes the local advantages her farm brings. “The oysters create a remarkable three-dimensional habitat for juvenile marine life; this farm truly operates as its own ecosystem. Additionally, we have generated numerous job opportunities for individuals across the community.”
Facing Challenges
While mortality events and regulatory complexities present hurdles, the most significant challenge is weather-related. Hurricanes can devastate farms; for instance, Smith at Calusa lost an entire year’s worth of work to Hurricane Helene. “It requires endurance, creativity, determination, and flexibility—finding alternative approaches and persevering,” he explains.
Support comes from organizations like the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, where Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizes their mission: “Shellfish farmers are some of the most hardworking, innovative, and resilient individuals I know. We aim to elevate this remarkable growing industry in the South and invite everyone to participate. Savor a southern oyster, support local farmers, and truly taste the difference.”
Despite various challenges, Ballard from Calusa asserts: “I wouldn’t exchange this profession for any amount of money.”
This article initially appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
