Anyone slightly familiar with oysters recognizes that the northern shores of the United States are famous for their exquisite shellfish. Enthusiasts rave about the Beausoleils and Wellfleets of the East, while the Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West receive just as much acclaim.
However, when it comes to discussing Southeast oysters, reactions often include scrunched noses and disapproving shakes of the head. Who would want second-rate oysters from warmer waters? I must admit that I was once among the skeptics.
This all changed after a chance encounter with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach in Florida, which broadened my perspective about Southern oysters. During an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered a dedicated group of entrepreneurs eager to restore the Southern oyster’s reputation, bolster their local economy, and promote environmental sustainability.
I received warm invitations to spend a few days assisting on the farms. Armed with rubber boots and sunscreen, I set out for the scenic Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day One: Gulf Adventures
This beautiful early morning, I am greeted by Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company at South Tampa Bay. His youthful partner, Reid Ballard, ushers us to their leasehold as Reed reveals that he and his wife Maura serendipitously discovered the idea of oyster farming, saying, “Why not us?”
“My family enjoys seafood, making it an obvious choice,” Reed shares, gesturing towards the stunning waters and clear skies. “And this view is hard to beat.”
In the Southeast, most oyster aquaculture occurs in estuaries that are “off-bottom,” where tides enrich the water with vital nutrients. Floating cages, each containing mesh bags of oysters at various growth stages, bob ahead of us.
Today’s main activity is harvest time. Bringing up a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves labor-intensive. Aquatic life clings to the cage, surrounded by seaweed, crabs, and small fish. Reed remarks, “Our farm has become a floating reef.”
The bags’ contents are tumbled through a rotating perforated cylinder, which separates smaller oysters while channeling those ready for harvest. Some of the smaller oysters are earmarked for donation to a local restoration effort, Oyster River Ecology, to bolster wild populations crucial for maintaining ecological balance. Reed clarifies the distinction: “cultivation” is meant for consumption, while “restoration” aims at environmental health.
This somewhat repetitive task of sorting allows us to delve into the personal aspects of oyster farming. Reid shares his motivation: “Cultivating a species that captures carbon, purifies water, and enhances habitat has truly opened my eyes to the ongoing work needed to maintain a clean environment.”
Reed concludes with, “Finding a vocation that has such a positive impact on people’s lives is immensely rewarding. Have you ever noticed people frowning while enjoying oysters?”
Day Two: Adventures on the Atlantic
I am welcomed by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish at a dock on the Indian River Lagoon. As our skiff glides over the crystal-clear water, Nicolette confides her longstanding fascination with aquaculture, ignited during her volunteer work at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center when she was just 14. With a Bachelor of Science degree backing her passion, she shares: “I adore those early mornings on the boat, soaking in the sounds and aromas… from the ospreys to dolphins and the manatees surfacing for air.”
Once back at the dock, her crew dons their gear and begins the laborious process of separating and sorting the oysters; damaged ones are tossed into shallow waters, attracting swarms of various fish. Nicolette highlights the local benefits of the farm: “The oysters provide an incredible three-dimensional vertical habitat for young organisms; it’s like its own ecosystem. Additionally, we’ve created numerous jobs in our community for individuals across all age groups.”
Facing the Challenges
Although navigating mortality events and intricate regulations can be challenging, the most significant obstacle remains the weather. Hurricanes can devastate farms; for example, Reed at Calusa lost an entire year’s work to Hurricane Helene. “It takes perseverance, hard labor, creativity, resilience, and adaptability. We must find ways to work through every challenge,” he asserts.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association provides community support, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizing their mission: “Shellfish farmers are among the most dedicated, resilient, and innovative individuals I know. We aim to elevate this emerging Southern industry and invite people to participate. Experience the taste of a Southern oyster, support local farmers, and savor the difference.”
Despite the numerous challenges, Reid from Calusa reflects the sentiment of many farmers: “I wouldn’t trade this job for anything.”
This article was initially featured in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
