If you’re familiar with oysters, you likely know that the northern U.S. coastlines are famous for their delightful shellfish varieties. Enthusiasts rave about the Beausoleils and Wellfleets of the East and sing the praises of Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast.
However, when it comes to the oysters of the Southeast, many turn their noses up, pursing their lips in disdain at what they perceive as inferior oysters sourced from warmer waters. I must confess, I was once among those skeptics.
That changed dramatically after I tasted Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. During an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I met a group of dedicated entrepreneurs committed to revitalizing the Southern oyster’s reputation, providing value to their communities and positively impacting the local ecosystems.
I received warm invitations to immerse myself in the farming experience for a few days. Dressed in rubber boots and slathered with sunscreen, I headed towards the stunning waters of the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day one: On the gulf
The morning is pristine as Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company greets me at South Tampa Bay. His youthful associate, Reid Ballard, takes us out to their farm, while Smith shares that both he and his wife Maura somewhat accidentally discovered the world of oyster farming and thought, “We could do this!”
“My family enjoys seafood, so it felt like a natural venture,” Smith remarks, gesturing towards the shimmering waters and perfect sky. “Plus, it offers an unbeatable office view.”
Most oyster farming in the Southeastern region occurs in estuaries, where tides help replenish nutrients. We observe floating cages, each containing mesh bags filled with oysters at various growth stages.
Our main task for the day is harvesting. Lifting a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves challenging, with marine life clinging to the cage structures, including seaweed, crabs, and small fish. As Smith comments, “Our farm has become like a floating reef.”
We tumble the bag’s contents through a rotating perforated cylinder to separate the smaller oysters and direct those ready for harvest. Some smaller oysters will be donated to Oyster River Ecology, an initiative aimed at supporting vital wild populations in the waters. Smith clarifies the distinction: “Cultivation” is geared towards consumption, while “restoration” focuses on environmental health.
This meticulous process offers ample time to delve into the personal dimensions of this industry. Ballard expresses his passion: “Raising a species that sequesters carbon, purifies water, and fosters habitat growth has made me realize how much still needs to be accomplished to keep our environment thriving.”
And Smith encapsulates the sentiment: “Finding a business that positively impacts so many lives is truly rewarding. Do you ever see pictures of people eating oysters without a smile?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
I am received at a dock on the Indian River Lagoon by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our skiff skims across the clear waters, Nicolette shares that she became interested in aquaculture at just 14 while volunteering at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. Her Bachelor of Science degree enhances her enjoyment of her work. “I relish being out on the water early in the morning, soaking in the sounds and scents—ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air.”
Back at the dock, her crew dons slickers and begins sorting and separating. Damaged oysters are tossed into shallow waters where various fish swarm to feed. Mariano reflects on the local advantages provided by the farm: “The oysters create a remarkable three-dimensional habitat for juvenile organisms; it’s truly its own ecosystem. We’ve also created numerous jobs for people in our community across all age groups.”
The challenges
Variable weather patterns and stringent regulations can pose significant hurdles, with hurricanes being the most formidable threat. Smith at Calusa recounted how an entire year’s worth of effort was completely destroyed by Hurricane Helene. “This endeavor requires persistence, resilience, resourcefulness, and the ability to adapt. We simply find a way to overcome and keep progressing.”
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association offers community support. According to its Executive Director Adrianne Johnson: “Shellfish farmers are among the most dedicated, resilient, and innovative individuals I know. Our goal is to elevate this burgeoning industry in the South and motivate people to join us. Savor a southern oyster, support local farmers, and taste the difference.”
Despite the various challenges they face, Ballard from Calusa declares on behalf of his fellow farmers: “I wouldn’t trade this job for anything else.”
This article originally appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (U.S. edition).
