For those even slightly acquainted with oysters, it’s well-known that the northern coasts of the United States are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish selections. Enthusiasts rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East, while Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West steal the culinary spotlight.
However, mention the oysters from the southeastern region, and you’re likely to encounter scrunched noses and disapproving shakes of the head. Inferior oysters from warm waters? Not a chance on my chilled platter of crushed ice. I admit—this was my stance until recently.
A fortunate encounter with Shark Bite oysters hailing from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, reshaped my perspective entirely. At an Oyster South symposium held in St. Augustine, I met a dedicated group of entrepreneurs committed to reviving the Southern oyster’s reputation, bolstering community value, and fostering local environmental stewardship.
With warm welcomes, I was invited to spend a couple of days immersed in life on the farms. Armed with rubber boots and a generous layer of sunscreen, I made my way to the picturesque waters of the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day One: On the Gulf
On a stunning early morning, Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me at South Tampa Bay. His enthusiastic colleague, Reid Ballard, pilots us to their designated leasehold as Smith shares that he and his wife Maura essentially stumbled into the world of oyster farming with the realization, “Hey, we could do that!”
“My family has a deep appreciation for seafood, so this path seemed like a natural progression,” Smith explains while gesturing towards the sparkling waters and cloudless skies. “Plus, you can’t beat the office view.”
Much of the oyster farming in the Southeast occurs “off-bottom” in estuarine waters, where tides perpetually refresh the nutrient flow. Floating cages bob alongside us, each containing mesh bags filled with oysters at diverse growth stages.
The day’s main objective is harvesting. Pulling up a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be a challenging job, with a plethora of marine life clinging to the cage structures. As Smith aptly notes: “Our farm is like a floating reef now.”
The contents from the bags are sorted through a rotating perforated cylinder, filtering out the smaller oysters while collecting those primed for harvest. Some of the smaller oysters are destined for a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, aimed at bolstering the wild populations essential for the ecosystem’s health. Smith delineates: “cultivation” serves consumption, while “restoration” supports the environment.
The somewhat laborious process of sifting and sorting provides time to delve into the personal experiences of this lifestyle. Ballard describes the motivation fueling him: “Cultivating a species that captures carbon, purifies water, and fosters habitat growth has profoundly showcased how much effort is still needed to maintain a clean environment.”
Summing up the experience, Smith remarks: “Discovering a vocation that brings such joy to people’s lives is a true delight and honor. Is there ever a photo of someone not smiling while indulging in oysters?”
Day Two: On the Atlantic
I’m received by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish at a dock on the Indian River Lagoon. As our skiff glides over the crystalline waters, Nicolette shares her long-standing fascination with aquaculture, beginning when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center as a 14-year-old. With a Bachelor of Science degree backing her passion, she expresses, “I adore being out on the boat in the early morning, soaking in all the sounds and scents… the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air.”
Once back at the dock, her team dons slickers to commence separating and sorting; any damaged oysters are cast into the shallow waters, inviting several fish species to feed. Mariano reflects on the numerous local advantages her farm provides. “The oysters create an incredible vertical habitat for juvenile organisms; the farm is genuinely its own ecosystem. Additionally, we’ve generated numerous jobs for community members of all ages.”
The Challenges
While mortality events and intricate regulations can be quite challenging to manage, the weather stands out as the most significant hurdle. Hurricanes can devastate entire farms; Smith at Calusa recalls losing a year’s worth of work due to Hurricane Helene. “It takes tenacity, hard work, resourcefulness, resilience, and flexibility. We simply find ways to navigate through and persist,” he explains.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association lends crucial community support, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson expressing their goal: “Shellfish farmers are among the most dedicated, innovative, and hardworking individuals I have known. We aim to elevate this remarkable emerging industry in the South and invite everyone to join us. Try a southern oyster, support a local farmer, and truly taste the difference.”
Despite the myriad challenges they face, Ballard from Calusa sums it up for his fellow farmers: “I wouldn’t trade this job for anything—incredible as it is.”
This article originally appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
