If you’re even slightly familiar with oysters, you’re likely aware that the northern shores of the United States are celebrated for their outstanding shellfish varieties. Enthusiasts rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, while Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast enjoy similar acclaim.
However, when the conversation shifts to Southeastern oysters, reactions often involve wrinkled noses and skeptical expressions. Inferior oysters from warmer waters? Count me out! I must admit; I was once among those doubters.
Then, an unexpected experience with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, changed my perspective (and taste buds) forever. During an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered a dedicated group of entrepreneurs committed to revitalizing the Southern oyster’s image, fostering community value, and improving the local environment.
Day One: Gulf Adventures
On a stunning early morning, Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His young associate, Reid Ballard, takes us out to their leasehold as Smith shares that he and his wife Maura inadvertently embarked on the journey of oyster farming, thinking, “Why not?”
“My family has always enjoyed seafood, so it seemed like a natural avenue to explore,” Smith explains while gesturing to the sparkling waters and bright skies. “It’s a pretty unbeatable office.”
Oyster farming in the Southeast predominantly occurs “off-bottom” in estuaries, where tidal movements consistently replenish nutrients. Floating cages ahead contain mesh bags filled with oysters in various stages of development.
The main activity for the day involves harvesting. Hoisting up a cage and extracting a compressed bag proves to be quite the workout. Marine life clings to the cage, surrounded by seaweed, crabs, and small fish. As Smith points out: “Our farm has effectively become a floating reef.”
The bags’ contents are rotated through a perforated cylinder, sorting the smaller oysters and directing the harvest-ready ones. Some of these smaller oysters will be given to the local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, to help support wild populations crucial for maintaining local health. Smith distinguishes between the two processes: “cultivation” is meant for consumption, whereas “restoration” serves environmental needs.
This somewhat repetitive job of cleaning and sorting provides an opportunity to discuss personal insights about this lifestyle. Ballard describes the passion that fuels his work: “Cultivating an organism that captures carbon, purifies water, and encourages habitat growth has made me aware of how much remains to be done for our environment.”
Smith encapsulates it well: “Finding a business that positively impacts people’s lives is a real joy and honor. Have you ever seen anyone eat oysters without smiling?”
Day Two: Exploring the Atlantic
I am welcomed by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish at the dock along the Indian River Lagoon. As our skiff glides over the translucent waters, she shares her childhood fascination with aquaculture, which began as a volunteer experience at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center when she was just 14. Her academic credentials bolster her enthusiasm for her new career. “I cherish the peace of being out on the boat in the morning, absorbing all the sights and sounds—the ospreys, the dolphins, and the manatees surfacing for air,” she expresses.
Back at the dock, her crew dons rain gear and begins sorting; damaged oysters are returned to the shallow waters, where a variety of fish feed. Mariano reflects on the farm’s local impact. “The oysters create a remarkable vertical habitat for young organisms; the farm serves as its own little ecosystem. We’ve also generated multiple job opportunities within our community for people across age groups.”
The Obstacles
While mortality events and intricate regulation can present hurdles, the most significant challenge stems from weather conditions. Hurricanes can devastate farms; Smith from Calusa shared that an entire year’s harvest was obliterated by Hurricane Helene. “It demands persistence, creativity, resilience, and the ability to adapt. We just learn to navigate around the obstacles and keep moving forward.”
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association offers community support, with their Executive Director Adrianne Johnson highlighting their mission: “Shellfish farmers are among the most hardworking, innovative, and resilient individuals I know. Our goal is to elevate this promising industry in the South and encourage participation. Try a southern oyster, support a local farmer, and relish the difference.”
Despite the numerous challenges, Ballard from Calusa echoes the sentiments of his fellow farmers: “I wouldn’t trade this for a million bucks.”
This feature originally appeared in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
