If you’re familiar with oysters, you likely know the northern shores of the United States are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish varieties. Enthusiasts rave about the Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, while their counterparts on the West Coast, such as Kumamotos and Hama Hamas, receive equal admiration.
However, when the discussion shifts to the Southeastern oysters, the enthusiasm often wanes, met with skepticism and disapproval. Warm water oysters labeled as subpar? They won’t find a place on my ice-filled platter. I must admit, I used to share this viewpoint.
Then, a chance encounter with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, transformed my perspective completely. At an Oyster South symposium held in St. Augustine, I met a dedicated group of entrepreneurs who are committed to reviving the reputation of Southern oysters, providing value to their communities, and improving the local ecosystem.
I received warm invites to spend a few days working on the farms. Armed with rubber boots and sunscreen, I excitedly set off to the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
First Day: Gulf Waters
As dawn breaks, I’m greeted by Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company in South Tampa Bay. With his youthful colleague Reid Ballard at the helm, we head to their leasehold. Smith shares how he and his wife Maura serendipitously discovered oyster farming and thought, “Why not!”
“Our family adores seafood, so this seemed like a natural choice,” Smith remarks, gesturing towards the shimmering waters and clear skies. “Not to mention, the view from the office is unbeatable.”
Most southeastern oyster farming occurs off the bottom in estuaries that are perpetually replenished by tidal flows. Ahead, floating cages bob in the water, each containing mesh bags filled with oysters at different growth stages.
Today’s agenda focuses on harvesting. Hauling up a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be quite a workout. Various sea creatures cling to the cage, with seaweed, crabs, and tiny fish surrounding us. “Our farm acts like a floating reef,” Smith observes.
The contents of each bag are tumbled through a spinning perforated cylinder, which sorts out smaller oysters while directing those ready for harvest. Some of the smaller oysters will be donated to a local restoration effort, the Oyster River Ecology, to support wild populations critical to maintaining healthy waters. Smith emphasizes, “Cultivation is for consumption, while restoration is for the environment.”
This repetitive task of cleaning and sorting provides a moment to delve into personal motivations. Ballard shares his passion: “Cultivating an organism that captures carbon, clarifies water, and fosters habitat growth has made me recognize the work that remains to keep our environment pristine.”
Summing it up, Smith reflects, “Finding a job that brings such happiness to people is rewarding. Honestly, do you ever see a photo of someone frowning while eating oysters?”
Second Day: Atlantic Experience
At a dock in the Indian River Lagoon, I’m welcomed by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As we glide through the clear waters, Nicolette shares her long-standing fascination with aquaculture dating back to her time as a volunteer at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at age 14. Her Bachelor of Science degree fuels her enjoyment of this career. “I love the early morning boat rides, savouring all the sounds and aromas… from the ospreys, dolphins, to manatees coming up for air.”
Back at the dock, her crew suits up, beginning to separate and sort the oysters; any damaged oysters are tossed into the shallow waters, attracting various fish species. Mariano notes the benefits the farm brings to the local ecosystem: “The oysters establish a remarkable vertical habitat for juvenile organisms; this farm is its own unique ecosystem. We’ve also generated jobs for community members of various ages.”
The Obstacles Faced
Facing mortality events and intricate regulations can be challenging, but inclement weather poses the greatest threat. Hurricanes can devastate farms; Reed Smith of Calusa recalls an entire year’s yield being destroyed by Hurricane Helene. “Determination, effort, creativity, resilience, and flexibility are crucial. We always find a way to adapt and push forward,” he reflects.
Support for farmers comes from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association. Its Executive Director, Adrianne Johnson, emphasizes their goal: “Shellfish farmers are among the most dedicated, resilient, and innovative people I know. We aim to elevate this remarkable new industry in the South and encourage people to participate. Savor a southern oyster, back a local farmer, and experience the distinction.”
Despite the numerous hurdles, Reid Ballard from Calusa articulates the sentiments of many farmers: “I wouldn’t trade this job for anything.”
This piece was initially featured in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
