Anyone familiar with oysters can attest to the fact that the northern regions of the U.S. are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish varieties. East Coast enthusiasts rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets, while their West Coast counterparts sing the praises of Kumamotos and Hama Hamas.
However, when the topic shifts to Southeastern oysters, reactions often include disdain, with expressions of disbelief at the suggestion of subpar oysters from warmer waters. Count me among the skeptics.
That was until I had a fortuitous experience tasting Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, which opened my palate to a realm of flavors I had overlooked. At the Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I met a dedicated group of entrepreneurs passionately working to restore the reputation of Southern oysters, uplift their communities, and promote local environmental improvements.
They graciously invited me to spend a few days working on the farms. Armed with rubber boots and generous applications of sunscreen, I made my way to the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day one: On the gulf
On a picturesque morning, Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His partner, Reid Ballard, navigates us towards their leasehold as Smith recounts how he and his wife Maura serendipitously discovered the world of oyster farming and thought, “Why not?”
“As my family enjoys seafood, it felt like a natural path to pursue,” says Smith, gesturing towards the shimmering waters and clear skies. “Not to mention, the workspace is unbeatable.”
Most of the Southeast’s oyster farming occurs in estuaries via “off-bottom” methods, where tides continuously refresh the water’s nutrients. In the water ahead, floating cages are visible, housing mesh bags filled with oysters at various stages of development.
Today’s main focus is harvesting. Lifting a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be a labor-intensive endeavor. The cage structures are teeming with marine life, showcasing everything from seaweed to crabs and small fish. As Smith says: “Our farm resembles a floating reef.”
The bags’ contents are processed through a rotating sieve, separating smaller oysters and guiding those ripe for harvesting. Some smaller specimens are set aside for donation to a local oyster restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, to assist the wild populations essential for the ecosystem’s health. Smith emphasizes the distinction: “cultivation” is aimed at consumption, while “restoration” focuses on environmental enhancement.
The somewhat monotonous routine of cleaning and sorting allows for deeper conversations about this lifestyle. Ballard expresses the motivation behind his work: “Cultivating creatures that sequester carbon, clarify water, and foster habitat development has enlightened me about the ongoing efforts needed to maintain a pristine environment.”
Smith succinctly states: “Finding a business that contributes positively to people’s lives is a true joy. Have you ever seen photos of individuals not smiling when enjoying oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
At a dock in the Indian River Lagoon, Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish welcomes me. As we glide through the clear waters, Nicolette shares her long-standing interest in aquaculture, which started when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at just 14. Her Bachelor of Science degree adds a solid foundation to her love for the work. “I relish the moments spent on the boat during the early mornings, absorbing the atmosphere… listening to the ospreys, watching dolphins, and spotting manatees surfacing for air.”
Back at the dock, her team dons slickers and begins the process of sorting; any damaged oysters are returned to the shallows, where various fish thrive and feed. Mariano reflects on the benefits her farm brings to the local ecosystem. “The oysters establish a rich, three-dimensional habitat that supports juvenile species; in essence, the farm becomes its own ecosystem. We’ve also generated various job opportunities in our community for individuals of all ages.”
Challenges Faced
While mortality rates and complex regulations present challenges, the most significant threat comes from weather. Hurricanes can devastate farms; for instance, Smith at Calusa suffered devastating losses during Hurricane Helene. “It requires determination, hard work, creativity, and the ability to adapt. We always find a way forward,” he reflects.
Support is offered by the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson highlighting their goals: “Shellfish farmers are some of the most hardworking, innovative individuals I know. Our mission is to elevate this burgeoning industry in the South and encourage people to engage with it. Sample a southern oyster, support our local farmers, and enjoy the unique flavors.”
Despite the numerous obstacles, Calusa’s Ballard encapsulates the sentiment of many in the industry: “I wouldn’t exchange this work for anything.”
This article was first featured in the November/December 2025 edition of The Windows Clubs magazine (U.S. version).
