Anyone familiar with oysters knows that the northern U.S. coastline is celebrated for its exquisite varieties. Enthusiasts rave about the Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast while praising Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast.
However, mention the oysters from the Southeastern region and you may encounter skepticism; noses wrinkle, lips tighten, and heads shake. Inferior oysters from warmer waters? They won’t find a place on my platter of crushed ice. I confess, I was once among these skeptics.
That was until a chance meeting with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, introduced me to an entirely refreshing perspective. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered enthusiastic entrepreneurs committed to revitalizing the reputation of Southern oysters, benefiting their communities, and improving the local ecosystem.
With warm invitations extended to experience life on the farms firsthand, I packed my rubber boots and sunscreen and set off for the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
It’s all good
The Monterey Bay Seafood Watch endorses farmed oysters, listing them on their Super Green List as beneficial for both health and the environment. They offer a rich source of protein and various vitamins and minerals that enhance brain function, combat bone loss, and strengthen immunity. Moreover, oyster aquaculture has numerous ecological advantages, improving water quality, providing nutrient filtration, creating habitats, and stabilizing shorelines.
If you want to make a difference, support your food sources, buy local, and back initiatives for clean water.
Day one: On the gulf
“Have you ever seen anyone not smile while enjoying oysters?”
On a stunning early morning, Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His young assistant, Reid Ballard, navigates us toward their leasehold while Smith reminisces about how he and his wife, Maura, serendipitously discovered the concept of oyster farming and thought, “Why not?”
“My family has always enjoyed seafood, so this was a natural endeavor,” Smith explains, gesturing toward the sparkling waters and clear skies. “Honestly, the work environment is unmatched.”
The majority of oyster farming in the Southeast occurs in estuaries, utilizing “off-bottom” methods where tides continuously replenish nutrients in the water. Floating cages ahead are filled with mesh bags containing oysters at different growth stages.
Today’s main objective is harvesting. Retrieving a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be quite a workout. The cages are alive with a plethora of marine life, from seaweed to crabs and tiny fish. As Smith observes, “Our farm has become like a floating reef.”
The oysters tumble through a rotating perforated cylinder, allowing for the separation of smaller oysters while the larger ones are funneled for harvest. Some of these smaller oysters will be donated to the local restoration organization, Oyster River Ecology, to bolster the wild populations essential for the environment’s health. Smith clarifies the distinction: “Cultivation is for eating; restoration is for environmental health.”
The somewhat monotonous process of cleaning and sorting offers room for personal reflections. Ballard shares his motivations: “Cultivating an organism that removes carbon, purifies water, and creates habitats has illuminated the need for continued efforts to preserve our environment.”
In summation, Smith adds, “It’s a joy and honor to be part of a business that brings such happiness. Truly, when do you see someone frowning while eating oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
“Our farm is a little ecosystem in itself.”
At the dock in the Indian River Lagoon, I’m warmly welcomed by Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish. As we cruise over the crystal-clear waters, Mariano shares her long-standing fascination with aquaculture, stemming from her days as a 14-year-old volunteer at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. Her Bachelor of Science degree also shapes her appreciation for her profession. “There’s nothing like being out on the boat early in the morning, immersed in the sights and sounds… the ospreys, playful dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air.”
Back at the dock, her team begins sorting the oysters, with damaged ones being returned to the water where various fish species feast. Mariano reflects on the positive impacts of the farm. “Our oysters provide a fascinating vertical habitat for young organisms; the farm genuinely functions as its own little ecosystem. Additionally, we’ve generated several job opportunities for our community members, across all age groups.”
The obstacles
“Try a southern oyster, support a local farmer, savor the difference.”
Facing mortality events and navigating complex regulations, the most significant hurdle is often weather. Hurricanes can devastate farms; Smith of Calusa recalls losing an entire year’s harvest to Helene. “It requires determination, hard work, creativity, endurance, and adaptability. We find ways to navigate around or through challenges and continue.”
Support from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association aids these farmers. Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizes their purpose: “Shellfish farmers are among the most committed, resilient, and innovative individuals I know. We aim to elevate this remarkable emerging sector in the South and invite people to engage with it. Sample a southern oyster, back a local farmer, and experience the difference.”
Despite numerous challenges, Ballard from Calusa expresses sentiments shared by his fellow farmers: “I wouldn’t exchange this role for any sum.”
Order direct
If you want the freshest oysters at home, purchase directly from the farmers. While local pick-up is preferable, shipping is also available:
- Taylor Shellfish (taylorshellfishfarms.com)
- Little Wicomico Oyster Co. (lwoysters.com)
- Glidden Point Oyster Farms (gliddenpoint.com)
- Island Creek Oysters (islandcreekoysters.com)
This article originally appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (U.S. edition).
