For anyone familiar with oysters, it’s clear that the northern shores of the United States are well-known for their mouthwatering shellfish varieties. Enthusiasts rave about the Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, while praising Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast.
However, when discussing Southeastern oysters, expressions of disdain often follow—warm waters producing second-rate oysters? Absolutely not on my plate of crushed ice. I must admit: I was among those skeptics.
Then, a fortunate encounter with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, changed everything for me. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I met a dedicated group of entrepreneurs committed to rehabilitating the image of Southern oysters, bolstering community value, and improving the local ecosystem.
With gracious invitations to experience life on the farms firsthand, I packed my rubber boots and slathered on sunscreen, excitedly setting out for the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day One: In the Gulf
On a stunning early morning, I’m greeted by Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company as we set out from South Tampa Bay. His enthusiastic partner, Reid Ballard, steers us toward their lease area, while Smith shares how he and his wife, Maura, stumbled into oyster farming with the thought, “Why not?”
“Seafood holds a special place in my family, so it seemed like a natural path to pursue,” Smith explains, gesturing toward the sparkling waters and clear skies. “The work environment is unmatched.”
Most of the oyster farming along the Southeast is done “off-bottom” in estuarine zones that are constantly replenished by tides. Floating cages filled with mesh bags of oysters at different growth stages bobbing in the water ahead of us exemplify this practice.
Today’s main objective is harvesting. Hoisting a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be a challenging endeavor, with life clinging to the cage structures—seaweed, crabs, and small fish abound. “Our farm has turned into a floating reef,” Smith points out.
The bags’ contents are processed through a rotating perforated cylinder that sorts the smaller oysters from those ready for consumption. Some of the smaller ones are earmarked for donation to Oyster River Ecology, a local restoration initiative aimed at bolstering wild populations crucial for the ecosystem’s health. Smith clarifies: “Cultivation is for human consumption, while restoration focuses on environmental health.”
This somewhat routine task allows for deeper conversations about life in this sector. Ballard shares his motivations: “Raising an organism that sequesters carbon, purifies water, and nurtures habitat has opened my eyes to the necessary work ahead for maintaining a clean environment.”
Smith adds, “Finding a business that spreads positivity in people’s lives is immensely rewarding. Do you ever see pictures of people frowning while eating oysters?”
Day Two: On the Atlantic
At a dock along the Indian River Lagoon, I meet Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our skiff glides over the pristine water, Nicolette shares her lifelong fascination with aquaculture that began at the age of 14 as a volunteer at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. Her Bachelor of Science degree complements her joy in this field. “I appreciate the early morning boat rides and immerse myself in the environment—the calls of ospreys, dolphins surfacing, and manatees breathing.”
At the dock, her team gears up and begins sorting through the oysters; damaged ones are tossed back into the shallow waters where fish gather to feed. Mariano reflects on the local impact of their operations: “The oysters create a remarkable three-dimensional habitat for juvenile species; the farm indeed constitutes its own miniature ecosystem. Moreover, we’ve generated numerous jobs in the community for individuals across all age groups.”
Facing Challenges
While navigating mortality events and complex regulations can be challenging, the weather poses the greatest threat. Smith of Calusa recalls the devastation wrought by Hurricane Helene, which wiped out an entire year’s worth of work. “It demands persistence, ingenuity, resilience, and adaptability. We simply find a way to keep going.”
Community backing is crucial, as highlighted by Adrianne Johnson, Executive Director of the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, who emphasizes their objectives: “Shellfish farmers are among the hardest working, most adaptable, and innovative people I know. We’re dedicated to supporting this incredible burgeoning industry in the South and encourage everyone to engage with it. Taste a Southern oyster, back a local producer, experience the difference.”
Despite the various obstacles, Ballard from Calusa voices a common sentiment among his colleagues: “I wouldn’t trade this job for anything.”
This article originally appeared in the November/December 2025 issue of The Windows Club magazine (US edition).
