If you have even a modest familiarity with oysters, you’re likely aware that the northern regions of the U.S. are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish varieties. Enthusiasts rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, while Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West have fans of their own.
However, bring up oysters from the Southeast, and you might encounter scornful reactions, with noses wrinkling and lips curling. Inferior oysters from warmer waters? That’s not something I’d entertain on my ice-cold platter. I admit, I used to share this sentiment.
But everything changed after I tasted Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, during an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine. Here, I met a dedicated group of entrepreneurs striving to uplift the Southern oyster’s reputation while benefiting their communities and enhancing the local ecosystem.
They graciously invited me to immerse myself in their world for a few days on the farms. With rubber boots packed and sunblock generously applied, I made my way to the shores of the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day one: On the Gulf
On a stunning early morning, Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His youthful buddy, Reid Ballard, navigates us towards their leasehold, while Smith shares that he and his wife Maura’s venture into oyster farming was almost accidental, saying, “Hey, we could do that!”
“My family has always enjoyed seafood, so diving into this was a natural choice,” Smith explains as he gestures to the shimmering waters and clear skies. “Plus, I can hardly complain about the view from my office.”
Most oyster farming in the Southeast takes place “off-bottom” in estuarine waters, where tides regularly refresh nutrient levels. In front of us are floating cages housing mesh bags that contain oysters at various developmental stages.
The main task for today is to harvest. Raising a cage and extracting a flattened bag turns out to be a labor-intensive effort. Life abounds around the cage structures, with an array of seaweed, crabs, and small fish visible. Smith remarks, “Our farm has evolved into a floating reef.”
The contents of the bags are placed into a rotating perforated cylinder that sorts out the smaller oysters, channeling those that are ready for harvest. Some of the smaller oysters will be donated to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, aimed at bolstering the wild populations essential for maintaining the health of the waters. Smith differentiates: “cultivation is intended for consumption, while restoration is focused on environmental health.”
The somewhat monotonous nature of scraping and sorting allows for personal reflections on this lifestyle. Ballard shares his motivation: “Cultivating an organism that sequesters carbon, cleanses water, and fosters habitat growth has made me acutely aware of the efforts needed to maintain a clean environment.”
Smith encapsulates this sentiment: “Finding a vocation that spreads so much joy in people’s lives is a genuine honor. Have you ever seen anyone not smiling while savoring oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
As I arrive at a dock along the Indian River Lagoon, Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish greets me. Our skiff glides over the crystalline waters, and she shares that her passion for aquaculture ignited when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at just 14 years old. Her Bachelor of Science degree has laid the groundwork for her enjoyment in this pursuit. “Being on the boat at dawn, surrounded by the sounds and scents… the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air, it’s pure bliss,” she adds.
At the dock, her crew dons their jackets and begins the sorting process; any damaged oysters are tossed back into the shallows where various fish species gather to feed. Mariano discusses the local advantages derived from the farm. “The oysters provide an incredible three-dimensional habitat for juvenile marine life; indeed, the farm is a vibrant ecosystem in its own right. Additionally, we’ve generated numerous jobs in our community for all age groups.”
The Challenges
Mortality events and multifaceted regulations pose significant hurdles, but the weather remains the primary adversary. Hurricanes can devastate the farms; Smith from Calusa recounts how he lost an entire year’s effort to Hurricane Helene. “Endurance, hard work, cleverness, resilience, and flexibility are crucial. We just find ways to adapt and push forward,” he explains.
Support for the community comes from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizing their mission: “Shellfish farmers are among the most hardworking, resilient, and innovative individuals I know. We aim to elevate this exciting emerging industry in the south and encourage people to engage with it. Try a southern oyster, back a local farmer, and relish the difference.”
Despite numerous challenges, Ballard from Calusa expresses his commitment on behalf of his fellow farmers: “There isn’t a job I would trade for a million dollars.”
This article was initially published in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US issue).
