If you’ve even casually explored the world of oysters, you’re likely aware that the northern U.S. coastline is famous for its superior shellfish varieties. Enthusiasts rave about Beausoleil and Wellfleet oysters from the East Coast, while Kumamoto and Hama Hama oysters from the West are similarly celebrated.
However, when discussing the oysters from the Southeast, many quickly dismiss them with upturned noses and skeptical expressions. Who would want second-rate oysters from warmer waters? I must confess that I used to share this sentiment.
It wasn’t until I stumbled upon Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, that my perspective shifted dramatically. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered a dedicated group of entrepreneurs aiming to revive the Southern oyster’s reputation, enhance community value, and improve local ecosystems.
I was graciously invited to spend a few days working on the farms. With rubber boots packed and sunscreen generously applied, I set off to explore the waters of both the Atlantic and Gulf coasts.
Day One: Gulf Exploration
On a stunning early morning, I am greeted by Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company in South Tampa Bay. His young assistant, Reid Ballard, pilots us to their aquaculture site while Smith recounts how he and his wife Maura serendipitously discovered the world of oyster farming, thinking, “We could certainly do that!”
“Our family has a deep appreciation for seafood, making this endeavor a natural fit,” Smith shares while gesturing towards the beautiful waters and clear skies. “Besides, the view from the office is unbeatable.”
The majority of oyster farming in the Southeast occurs in estuaries, where the tides continuously enrich the water with nutrients. Ahead of us, floating cages hold mesh bags of oysters at various stages of growth.
Our main task today is to harvest. A challenging endeavor, extracting a bag from the cage proves to be no easy feat. Surrounding marine life clings to the cages, with crabs, tiny fish, and seaweed all around. According to Smith, “Our farm now serves as a floating reef.”
After pulling the bags, they go through a rotating cylinder that separates the smaller oysters from the larger ones, the latter designated for harvest. Some of the smaller oysters will be donated to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, aimed at supporting the natural wild populations essential for the ecosystem’s health. Smith emphasizes the distinction: “cultivation” is meant for consumption, while “restoration” serves environmental needs.
The somewhat repetitive process of sorting allows for personal reflections. Ballard articulates his motivations: “Nurturing an organism that captures carbon, cleans water, and enhances habitat diversity has broadened my awareness of the ongoing efforts needed to maintain a clean environment.”
Summarizing their mission, Smith expresses, “Finding a profession that brings such joy to people’s lives is immensely gratifying. Do you ever see people devoid of smiles when they enjoy oysters?”
Day Two: Atlantic Adventures
On the shores of Indian River Lagoon, I meet Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our boat cuts through the pristine waters, Nicolette shares her lifelong fascination with aquaculture, sparked at just 14 during her time volunteering at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. With a Bachelor of Science degree backing her passion, she states, “I adore early mornings on the water, embracing the sounds and scents… the cries of ospreys, the sight of dolphins, and even manatees surfacing for air.”
Once at the dock, her team dons slickers and begins the labor-intensive process of sorting. Damaged oysters are cast into the shallow waters, drawing in various fish species to feed. Mariano notes the local ecological benefits of their farm: “The oysters craft a complex vertical habitat that supports young marine life; this truly is its own little ecosystem. Additionally, we’ve generated multiple job opportunities for locals across all age groups.”
Facing Challenges
While weather fluctuations, including hurricanes, pose the greatest challenge (Smith at Calusa recalls losing an entire year’s harvest to Hurricane Helene), mortality events and complex regulations also complicate matters. “It requires determination, hard work, creativity, resilience, and the ability to adapt. We find ways to navigate the difficulties and persist,” Smith explains.
Support comes from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, where Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizes their goals: “Shellfish farmers possess incredible work ethic, resilience, and innovation. Our aim is to elevate this evolving industry in the South, encouraging partnerships. Try a southern oyster, support local farmers, and truly taste the difference.”
Despite the multitude of obstacles, Ballard from Calusa expresses enthusiasm, stating, “I wouldn’t exchange this job for anything else.”
This article originally appeared in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (U.S. edition).
