For anyone familiar with oysters, it’s evident that the northern coasts of the United States are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish varieties. Enthusiastic oyster lovers rave about East Coast Beausoleils and Wellfleets while praising West Coast Kumamotos and Hama Hamas.
However, when the oysters of the Southeast are brought into conversation, skepticism often arises, with people turning their noses up at the thought of mediocre oysters from warmer waters. I admit, I was among the skeptics.
Then, a fortuitous discovery of Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, changed my perspective entirely. During an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered a dedicated group of passionate entrepreneurs eager to restore the Southern oyster’s image, enhance community value, and improve the local ecosystem.
Invited to spend a few days working on the farms, I packed my rubber boots and applied sunscreen, excited to explore the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day One: On the Gulf
The sun shines brightly as Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company greets me at South Tampa Bay. His enthusiastic colleague, Reid Ballard, steers us towards their leasehold while Smith candidly shares how he and his wife, Maura, unexpectedly discovered the world of oyster farming and thought, “Why not?”
“We are seafood lovers, so diving into this seemed a natural fit,” Smith explains, gesturing towards the sparkling waters and clear skies. “Besides, the view from the office is unbeatable.”
Most oyster farming in the Southeast occurs “off-bottom” in estuarine environments rich in nutrients, thanks to the constant tides. We navigate past floating cages, each filled with mesh bags of oysters at various growth stages.
The focus of the day is harvesting. Hoisting up a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be quite a workout, with various marine life clinging to the cage, including seaweed, crabs, and tiny fish. “Our farm has turned into a floating reef,” notes Smith.
The contents are funneled through a rotating perforated cylinder that separates smaller oysters and directs those ready for harvest. A portion of the smaller oysters will be donated to Oyster River Ecology, a local restoration initiative aimed at supporting wild populations essential to the health of the ecosystem. Smith distinguishes between the two: “Cultivation caters to consumption, whereas restoration benefits the environment.”
The somewhat monotonous effort of cleaning and sorting gives us a chance to delve into the personal side of this work. Ballard shares his motivation: “Growing organisms that capture carbon, purify water, and foster habitat growth has enlightened me about the ongoing work needed to maintain a clean environment.”
Smith encapsulates the experience: “It’s such a joy and a privilege to be in a business that spreads positivity. When you eat oysters, do you ever see anyone grimacing?”
Day Two: On the Atlantic
Docked at the Indian River Lagoon, I’m welcomed by Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our skiff glides over the pristine waters, she shares her lifelong passion for aquaculture, sparked at just 14 years of age while volunteering at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. Her Bachelor of Science degree complements her affection for her profession. “Being out on the water early in the morning, surrounded by the sounds and sights of nature—ospreys, dolphins, and manatees—is pure bliss,” she enthuses.
Back at the dock, her team suits up to start sorting and separating; any damaged oysters are tossed back into the shallow waters, where various fish rush in to feed. Mariano highlights the farm’s impact on the community. “The oysters create a remarkable vertical habitat for juvenile organisms, making our farm a self-contained ecosystem. Additionally, we’ve created job opportunities for locals of all ages.”
The Obstacles
Dealing with mortality events and complex regulations can pose challenges, but weather remains the greatest hurdle. Hurricanes can devastate farms; for instance, Smith of Calusa faced the loss of an entire year’s work due to Hurricane Helene. “It requires determination, hard work, creativity, resilience, and the ability to adapt. We simply find ways to navigate these obstacles and press on,” he explains.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, led by Executive Director Adrianne Johnson, offers crucial support as she expresses their mission: “Farmers within the shellfish industry are incredibly hardworking, resilient, and innovative. We aim to elevate and promote this budding industry in the South and encourage people to get involved. Savor a southern oyster, support local farmers, and enjoy the taste.”
Despite numerous challenges, Ballard from Calusa conveys his passion succinctly: “I wouldn’t trade this job for anything.”
This article first appeared in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
