If you’re somewhat acquainted with oysters, it’s likely you’ve heard of the northern coastal regions of the U.S. which are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish. Enthusiasts rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast while praising the flavor of Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the western shores.
However, when the oysters from the Southeast are brought up, many react with skepticism, looking down their noses and shaking their heads. Who wants to savor second-rate oysters from warmer waters, right? I admit, I used to belong to that camp.
Everything changed when I encountered Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, which introduced me to the delectable offerings of the South. During an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I met a passionate group of entrepreneurs on a mission to revitalize the Southern oyster’s reputation, create economic opportunities in their communities, and improve the surrounding environment.
I was warmly invited to spend time working on the oyster farms, so I slipped on my rubber boots and applied sunblock, excited to dive into the waters of the Atlantic and Gulf.
Day One: Gulf Waters
On a stunning early morning, Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company welcomes me to South Tampa Bay. His youthful partner, Reid Ballard, navigates us to their lease as Smith shares that he and his wife, Maura, basically fell into oyster farming and thought, “Why not give it a try?”
“My family adores seafood, making it a natural pursuit,” Smith points out, surveying the sparkling waters and unmarred blue skies. “Plus, the office view is unparalleled.”
Oyster farming in the Southeast primarily takes place “off-bottom” in estuaries where the tides consistently refresh nutrients in the water. We see floating cages ahead, each containing mesh bags filled with oysters at different growth stages.
Today’s main focus is on harvesting. Hoisting up a cage and extracting a bag can be quite an effort. A variety of marine life clings to the structures, with seaweed, crabs, and small fish noticeable at every turn. As Smith observes: “Our farm is evolving into a floating reef.”
The contents of the bags are processed through a rotating cylinder that separates the smaller oysters, funnelling the ones ready for harvest. Some of the smaller oysters will go to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, to bolster wild populations essential for the ecological health of these waters. Smith clarifies the distinction: “cultivation is for consumption, while restoration is for environmental needs.”
The somewhat labor-intensive process of cleaning and sorting provides an opportunity to delve into the deeper meaning of this work. Ballard shares the enthusiasm driving his efforts: “Farming an organism that sequesters carbon, cleans water, and fosters habitat growth has made me aware of how much more work is needed to keep our environment healthy.”
Smith sums it up concisely: “It’s such a joy and privilege to find a business that brings so much happiness to people’s lives. Ever notice that people rarely look unhappy while enjoying oysters?”
Day Two: Atlantic Adventures
On the Indian River Lagoon, I meet Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our boat glides across the crystal-clear waters, she shares her lifelong fascination with aquaculture, which began when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at just 14. Her Bachelor of Science degree complements her love for this vocation. “There’s nothing quite like being out on the water early in the day, soaking in the sounds and scents… the ospreys, the dolphins, and the occasional manatee surfacing.”
Back at the dock, her team suits up and begins sorting; any damaged oysters are tossed back into the shallow areas, where various species of fish gather to feed. Mariano reflects on the community advantages that arise from the farm. “The oysters generate this incredible three-dimensional habitat for younger aquatic creatures; the farm effectively becomes its own small ecosystem. We’ve also created several job opportunities for community members, spanning all age groups.”
Facing Challenges
While navigating the complexities of weather and regulations can be a challenge, hurricanes pose the greatest threat to these farms. For example, Smith of Calusa lost an entire year’s yield due to the devastation brought on by Hurricane Helene. “It requires relentless effort, creativity, and adaptability to overcome these hurdles. We continually find ways to persevere.”
Support is present from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson stating their goal: “Shellfish farmers are among the hardest-working and most resilient individuals I’ve encountered. We aim to elevate this burgeoning industry in the South and encourage people to engage with it. Experience a Southern oyster, support local farmers, and truly taste the difference.”
Regardless of these various obstacles, Ballard from Calusa encapsulates the spirit of his fellow farmers, stating, “I wouldn’t trade my job for anything, not even a million dollars.”
This article first appeared in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
