If you’re familiar with oysters, you’re likely aware that the northern shores of the US are celebrated for their exquisite seafood delicacies. Enthusiasts rave about the Beausoleils and Wellfleets of the East and praise the Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West.
However, when it comes to oysters from the Southeast, many cringe, turning up their noses at the thought of subpar shellfish from warmer waters. I admit I used to be one of those skeptics.
But a fortuitous introduction to Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, completely changed my perspective. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I met a dedicated group of innovative entrepreneurs committed to revamping the image of Southern oysters, contributing to their communities, and improving the local ecosystem.
They graciously invited me to spend a few days on their farms, and with rubber boots packed and sunscreen applied, I was excited to explore the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day One: Harvesting in the Gulf
This bright morning, Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company welcomes me to South Tampa Bay. His colleague, Reid Ballard, takes the helm of the boat, and Smith shares how he and his wife Maura serendipitously discovered oyster farming and decided, “We can do this!”
“My family has always been fond of seafood, so it made sense to explore this path,” Smith explains, gesturing to the stunning waters and azure skies. “And honestly, the view from the office is unbeatable.”
Most Southeast oyster farms operate “off-bottom” in estuaries, where the tides continuously refill the nutrient-rich waters. We glide past floating cages, each containing mesh bags filled with oysters at various growth stages.
Today’s main task is harvesting. Lifting a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves quite a workout. The sea life clinging to the cages—from seaweed to crabs and small fish—is abundant. “Our farm has become a floating reef,” Smith observes.
We sort through the contents of the bags in a rotating perforated cylinder that separates smaller oysters, redirecting those ready for harvest. Some of the smaller oysters will be donated to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, to aid wild populations crucial for the health of the waters. Smith emphasizes the distinction: “Cultivation” is for consumption, while “restoration” serves the ecosystem.
The meticulous task of sorting provides a chance for introspection. Ballard expresses his motivation: “Cultivating an organism that captures carbon, cleanses water, and fosters habitat growth has really opened my eyes to the extensive work still required for a clean environment.”
Smith encapsulates the sentiment: “It is such a joy and privilege to find a business that brings so much happiness to people. Have you ever seen anyone eating oysters without a smile?”
Day Two: Exploring the Atlantic
Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish greets me at the dock on the Indian River Lagoon. As our skiff glides across the clear water, she shares how her passion for aquaculture began when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at 14. With a Bachelor of Science backing her enthusiasm, she loves mornings spent on the water, enjoying the sights and sounds of nature, from ospreys to dolphins and manatees surfacing for air.
Upon returning to the dock, her team dons their slickers to begin separating and organizing the oysters, discarding any damaged ones into the shallow waters, where fish eagerly gather to feast. Mariano contemplates the community advantages of their farm: “Oysters create a remarkable three-dimensional habitat for young organisms; it is truly its own ecosystem. Additionally, we’ve generated numerous jobs in our area for individuals of varying ages.”
Facing Challenges
The challenges of oyster farming are multifaceted; while mortality rates and stringent regulations can be complex, the weather presents the greatest obstacles. Hurricanes can devastate farms; Smith from Calusa recalls losing an entire year’s worth of work to Hurricane Helene. “It demands perseverance, creativity, toughness, and the ability to adapt. We find ways to navigate through each challenge,” he reveals.
Support comes from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, where Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizes their goal: “Shellfish farmers are incredibly hardworking and innovative individuals. We aim to elevate this emerging industry in the South and welcome everyone to participate. Sample a southern oyster, support local farmers, and taste the difference.”
Despite facing significant hurdles, Ballard from Calusa expresses the sentiments of many farmers: “I wouldn’t trade this work for a million dollars.”
This article was first published in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
