If you’re even slightly familiar with oysters, it’s probably no surprise that the northern U.S. coasts are celebrated for their mouthwatering shellfish varieties. Enthusiasts rave about the Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, while the West showcases the praises of Kumamotos and Hama Hamas.
However, when the topic shifts to southeastern oysters, many people scrunch their noses in disdain, dismissing them as inferior due to their warmer waters. I openly admit that I was once among these skeptics.
But everything changed when I had an enlightening experience with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. There, at an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I met a group of dedicated entrepreneurs focused on elevating the reputation of Southern oysters, enhancing community value, and improving the local ecosystem.
They warmly invited me to spend a couple of days working on the farms. Equipped with rubber boots and sunscreen, I eagerly set out towards the waters of the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day One: Gulf Adventures
On a picturesque early morning, Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His young associate, Reid Ballard, takes us out to their leasing area as Smith shares how he and his wife Maura stumbled into oyster farming, thinking, “Why not give it a try?”
“Our family has always loved seafood, so it felt like a natural pursuit,” Smith explains, gesturing towards the shimmering waters and clear skies. “The view from the office is unbeatable.”
Most Southeastern oyster farming occurs off-bottom in estuaries, where tides refresh the nutrient-rich waters. Floating cages ahead contain mesh bags filled with oysters at different growth stages.
Our main task today is harvesting. Hoisting a cage up and extracting a flattened bag proves to be no easy task. The cage is adorned with various sea life, including crabs, seaweed, and tiny fish. “Our farm resembles a floating reef now,” Smith notes.
We process the oysters through a rotating sieve, sorting smaller oysters and separating those ready for market. Some of the smaller oysters are sent to a local restoration project by Oyster River Ecology to help sustain wild populations crucial for the environment. Smith differentiates: “Cultivation is for consumption; restoration is for ecological health.”
This somewhat tedious yet fulfilling process allows us to delve into the personal facets of this vocation. Ballard shares his driving passion: “Cultivating seafood that captures carbon, cleans water, and fosters habitat diversity has revealed just how much work remains to ensure environmental cleanliness.”
Smith encapsulates the sentiment: “Running a business that positively impacts people’s lives is a true pleasure and privilege. Have you ever seen anyone eating oysters without a smile?”
Day Two: Atlantic Insights
At the dock on the Indian River Lagoon, I meet Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish. As we glide across the sparkling waters, she reveals her deep-rooted fascination with aquaculture, sparked by her volunteer work at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at just 14. With a Bachelor of Science in hand, she deeply enjoys her chosen field. “I love the quiet of the early morning, the calls of the ospreys, the dolphins, and the manatees surfacing for air,” she shares.
Back at the dock, her crew begins the process of separating and sorting; any damaged oysters are tossed into the shallows, attracting swarms of fish. Mariano comments on the impressive local benefits stemming from their farm. “The oysters establish a remarkable vertical habitat for juvenile organisms; it truly is its own little ecosystem. We’ve also generated various job opportunities within our community for all ages.”
Obstacles
While weather conditions, especially hurricanes, pose the greatest threat to farms, regulatory challenges also add to the complexity. Smith from Calusa recalls a year of hard work wiped out by Hurricane Helene. “It demands persistence, creativity, resilience, and adaptability. We simply figure out how to navigate through,” he explains.
On the supportive side, the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association advocates for local farmers. Executive Director Adrianne Johnson shares their goal: “Shellfish farmers are among the most hardworking, resilient, and innovative individuals I know. We aim to uplift this nascent industry in the South and encourage others to engage with it. Try a Southern oyster, support a local farmer, and taste the distinction.”
Despite facing numerous hurdles, Ballard from Calusa articulates the sentiment of his peers, “I wouldn’t exchange this job for anything.”
This feature was initially published in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (U.S. edition).
