Anyone familiar with oysters understands that the northern US coasts are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish varieties. Enthusiasts rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East and extol the virtues of Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West.
However, when the conversation shifts to the oysters of the Southeast, skepticism often arises, accompanied by wrinkled noses, pursed lips, and disappointed shakes of the head. Who would want oysters from warmer waters deemed inferior? I must admit, I was among the skeptics.
Then, everything changed for me when I had the chance to try Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach in Florida. During an Oyster South event in St. Augustine, I encountered a dedicated group of entrepreneurs whose goal is to elevate the status of Southern oysters, enhance community value, and improve local ecosystems.
They graciously invited me to spend a couple of days working on their farms, so with rubber boots packed and sunblock lathered on, I set out for the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day one: On the gulf
On a stunning early morning, Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His young associate, Reid Ballard, steers us toward their leasehold as Smith shares that he and his wife Maura somewhat serendipitously ventured into oyster farming, realizing, “Hey, we could try this!”
“My family cherishes seafood, so it felt like a logical pursuit,” Smith remarks, gesturing at the shimmering waters and the clear skies. “Plus, the work environment is unbeatable.”
Most oyster farming in the Southeast occurs “off-bottom” in estuaries, where constant tidal movements refresh the water’s nutrients. Floating cages bob ahead of us, each brimming with mesh bags containing oysters at different growth stages.
Today’s main objective is harvesting. Retrieving a cage and extracting a flattened bag is surprisingly labor-intensive. Marine life clings to the cage structures, with seaweed, crabs, and tiny fish everywhere. As Smith observes, “Our farm resembles a floating reef now.”
The oysters from the bags are processed through a rotating perforated cylinder that sorts the smaller specimens while directing the ones ready for harvest. The smaller oysters are earmarked for donation to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, to boost the wild populations essential for the health of the waters. Smith delineates the distinction: “cultivation” pertains to consumption, while “restoration” focuses on environmental integrity.
The somewhat monotonous work of scraping and sorting offers opportunities to delve into personal motivations. Ballard shares his driving passion: “Raising an organism that captures carbon, purifies water, and fosters habitat development has enlightened me about the work still needed to maintain environmental cleanliness.”
And Smith encapsulates it perfectly: “Discovering a business that brings joy to so many lives is such a fulfilling opportunity. Have you ever seen someone not smiling while eating oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
Arriving at a dock in the Indian River Lagoon, I’m welcomed by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our small boat glides across the crystal-clear waters, Mariano shares that her fascination with aquaculture began when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at age 14. A Bachelor of Science degree fuels her appreciation for her career. “I adore being out on the water in the early mornings, savoring the sounds and scents… the ospreys, dolphins, and the manatees surfacing for air,” she reveals.
Back at the dock, her crew dons rain gear and starts segregating and sorting oysters; damaged ones are cast into shallow waters where various fish species gather and feed. Mariano emphasizes the local advantages the farm brings. “The oysters form a unique vertical habitat that benefits juvenile organisms; the farm genuinely acts as its own mini-ecosystem. Plus, we’ve created job opportunities in our community across all age groups.”
The obstacles
Facing mortality events and an intricate web of regulations can pose significant hurdles, but the weather remains the top challenge. Hurricanes can devastate the farms; Smith at Calusa saw an entire year’s efforts wiped out by Hurricane Helene. “Persistence, dedication, creativity, resilience, and adaptability are essential. We simply find a way to navigate through challenges and persevere,” he explains.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association offers community support, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizing their goal: “Shellfish farmers are perhaps the most industrious, resilient, and innovative individuals I know. We aim to uplift this remarkable emerging industry in the south and encourage people to explore it. Try a southern oyster, support a local farmer, and savor the difference.”
Despite the numerous challenges, Ballard from Calusa expresses the sentiment of his fellow farmers: “I wouldn’t trade this job for anything.”
This article originally appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
