If you’re at all familiar with oysters, it’s likely you know that the northern U.S. coast is famous for its exquisite shellfish. Oyster enthusiasts rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the Eastern seaboard, and extol the virtues of Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast.
However, bring up the oysters from the Southeast, and you’ll likely see some skepticism, with raised eyebrows and pursed lips. Warm waters yielding second-rate oysters? That won’t be gracing my platter of crushed ice. I admit I was among the skeptics.
Yet, a fortuitous encounter with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach in Florida changed my perspective entirely. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered a dedicated group of entrepreneurs striving to revitalize the Southern oyster’s reputation, provide value to their communities, and improve the local ecosystem.
I was graciously invited to lend a hand at the oyster farms for a few days. Donning rubber boots and slathering on sunblock, I eagerly ventured to the shores of the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day one: On the Gulf
The sun rises beautifully on a crisp morning as Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His young associate, Reid Ballard, navigates us out to their oyster farm. Smith shares how he and his wife Maura serendipitously happened upon oyster farming and thought, “We could do that!”
“Our family has a deep appreciation for seafood, so it made sense to pursue this path,” Smith explains, gesturing towards the sparkling waters and clear skies. “Besides, the office view is fantastic.”
Oyster farming in the Southeast primarily occurs in estuaries “off-bottom,” where the tides constantly bring in fresh nutrients. Floating cages, filled with mesh bags of oysters at different growth phases, bob along ahead of us.
Today’s main objective is to harvest. Hauling a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be quite a workout. The cage structures are alive with sea creatures, from seaweed to crabs and small fish. Smith remarks, “Our farm has become like a floating reef.”
The oysters tumble through a rotating perforated cylinder that sorts the smaller ones and directs those ready for harvest. Some of these smaller oysters will be donated to Oyster River Ecology, a local restoration project assisting wild populations vital for the health of the waters. “Cultivation is for eating; restoration is for the ecosystem,” Smith clarifies.
Amid the somewhat monotonous tasks of scraping and sorting oysters, there’s an opportunity to connect on a personal level. Ballard shares his motivations: “Cultivating an organism that captures carbon, filters water, and provides habitat has enlightened me to the immense effort required to maintain a clean environment.”
Smith summarizes their work’s reward: “It’s a joy and privilege to be part of a business that brings happiness to others. Honestly, do you ever see anyone eating oysters without a smile?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
At a dock on the Indian River Lagoon, I meet Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As we speed across the clear waters, Nicolette shares her long-standing fascination with aquaculture, sparked when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at just 14. Her Bachelor of Science degree further entrenches her passion for this field. “I love being out on the water in the early morning, surrounded by the sights and sounds of nature… the eagles, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air.”
Back on the dock, her team begins the process of sorting and removing damaged oysters, which are tossed into shallow waters where fish swiftly congregate to feed. Mariano reflects on the local impact of the farm: “The oysters establish a remarkable three-dimensional habitat for juvenile species; the farm operates as its own little ecosystem. We’ve also created numerous jobs within our community for all ages.”
The challenges
While mortality events and complex regulations can pose challenges, the weather tops the list of difficulties. Hurricanes can devastate farms; Smith from Calusa recalls losing an entire year’s worth of work due to Hurricane Helene. “It requires persistence, hard work, and adaptability. We find ways to navigate through and keep pushing forward,” he explains.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association provides support to the community, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizing their goal: “Shellfish farmers are incredibly hard-working, resilient, and innovative people. We aim to elevate this promising industry in the South and encourage everyone to be a part of it. Try a southern oyster, support a local farmer, and enjoy the flavor.”
Despite the numerous challenges, Ballard from Calusa expresses the sentiments of his fellow farmers: “I wouldn’t trade this job for anything.”
This article was first published in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US version).
