Anyone who knows a thing or two about oysters will tell you that the northern regions of the United States are famed for their exquisite variety of shellfish. Enthusiasts adore the Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, and rave about the Kumamotos and Hama Hamas hailing from the West Coast.
However, bring up oysters from the Southeastern United States, and you’re likely to see a negative reaction—disapproving expressions, pursed lips, and shaking heads. Oysters from warmer waters? They don’t belong on my platter of crushed ice! I confess I used to share this sentiment.
That was until I had a chance encounter with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach in Florida, which transformed my perspective. During an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I met a group of dedicated entrepreneurs determined to revitalize the reputation of Southern oysters, support their communities, and bolster the local environment.
I was graciously invited to spend a few days working on the farms, and with my rubber boots packed and sunscreen applied, I headed toward the waters of the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day 1: On the Gulf
The sun is just rising as Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His enthusiastic associate, Reid Ballard, takes us out to their leasehold while Smith shares that he and his wife Maura came across oyster farming as a possibility and thought, “Why not?”
“Our family enjoys seafood, so it made sense to pursue this,” Smith states, sweeping his hand toward the sparkling waters and clear skies. “Besides, the view from the ‘office’ is unbeatable.”
Most oyster farming in the Southeast occurs “off-bottom” in estuaries, where tides continually refresh the water’s nutrients. Ahead, we see floating cages containing mesh bags with oysters at various growth stages.
Today’s main objective is to harvest. Pulling up a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be a demanding endeavor, with marine life clinging to each structure, including seaweed, crabs, and small fish. “Our farm has become like a floating reef,” Smith observes.
The bags are emptied into a rotating perforated cylinder, which helps segregate the smaller oysters from those that are ready to be harvested. A portion of the smaller oysters will be donated to Oyster River Ecology, a local restoration initiative aimed at helping maintain wild populations crucial for the area’s ecological balance. Smith distinguishes between the two: “cultivation” is focused on consumption while “restoration” contributes to environmental health.
This somewhat laborious task allows for personal reflections about the work. Ballard shares his motivation, stating: “Farming an animal that captures carbon, cleanses water, and fosters habitat growth has opened my eyes to the ongoing efforts required to preserve our environment.”
Smith encapsulates this sentiment: “Finding a career that spreads joy offers such a fulfilling and rewarding experience. Do you ever notice people not smiling while enjoying oysters?”
Day 2: On the Atlantic
At the dock on the Indian River Lagoon, I am received by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As we glide over the clear waters in a skiff, Mariano shares her long-time fascination with aquaculture that began when she was a volunteer at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at just 14 years old. With her bachelor’s degree, she enriches her enjoyment of the work she loves. “I relish being out on the boat early in the morning, savoring the sounds and scents—ocean birds, dolphins, and even manatees surfacing for air.”
Back at the dock, her team dons rain gear and begins sorting oysters; damaged ones are returned to the shallow waters, attracting numerous fish that come to feed. Mariano reflects on the benefits local communities gain from the farm. “Our oysters create a vertical habitat for juvenile organisms; the farm functions as its own ecosystem, and we’ve generated various job opportunities for local residents across all age groups.”
The Challenges
While navigational hurdles such as mortality events and intricate regulations pose significant challenges, unpredictable weather remains the most formidable obstacle. Hurricanes can devastate farms; Smith from Calusa faced the loss of an entire year’s production due to Hurricane Helene. “It requires persistence, hard work, creativity, resilience, and the willingness to adapt. We just find ways around these challenges and adapt,” he explains.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association offers critical community support, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizing their mission: “Shellfish farmers are some of the most dedicated, resilient, and inventive individuals I know. We strive to uplift this growing industry in the south and invite people to be part of it. Sample a southern oyster, support a local grower, and experience the difference.”
Despite the many hurdles, Ballard from Calusa expresses the sentiment shared among his fellow growers: “I wouldn’t swap this job for a million dollars.”
This piece first appeared in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
