For those familiar with oysters, it’s no secret that the northern U.S. coasts are celebrated for their flavorful shellfish. Enthusiasts rave about the Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East and applaud the Kumamotos and Hama Hama from the West.
However, when it comes to Southeast oysters, reactions often carry skepticism; the general sentiment involves raised eyebrows and disapproving shakes of the head. Oysters from warmer waters deemed inferior? Count me out of that ice-cold platter. I won’t deny that I held similar views myself.
My perspective took a delightful turn after tasting Shark Bite oysters sourced from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I met a dedicated group of entrepreneurs committed to revamping the Southern oyster’s reputation, benefiting their communities and nurturing the local ecosystem.
I accepted their warm invitation to spend a few days working on the farms. So, with rubber boots packed and sunscreen applied, I eagerly journeyed toward the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day one: In the Gulf
On a radiant morning, Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His young colleague, Reid Ballard, pilots us out to their leasehold. Smith reveals that he and his wife Maura stumbled into oyster farming and thought, “Hey, we could do this!”
“My family enjoys seafood, so it felt like a natural pursuit,” Smith shares, indicating the sparkling waters and clear skies. “Besides, the office view is unbeatable.”
Much of the Southeastern oyster farming takes place “off-bottom” in estuaries where the tides continuously refresh the water’s nutrients. Floating cages, filled with mesh bags of oysters at various growth stages, bob in front of us.
Today’s main objective is to harvest. Lifting a cage and extracting a flattened bag turns out to be quite the workout. Urchins and other marine life cling around the cages, with crabs, little fish, and seaweed thriving. “Our farm resembles a floating reef now,” notes Smith.
The bags’ contents are tumbled through a rotating cylinder that sorts out the smaller oysters while directing the ones ready for harvest. Some of these smaller oysters will be contributed to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, aimed at supporting wild populations crucial to the water’s wellbeing. Smith distinguishes between the two: “cultivation” focuses on consumption, while “restoration” emphasizes environmental health.
The meticulous process of scraping and sorting allows for personal reflections on this lifestyle. Ballard shares his passion: “Cultivating an animal that stores carbon, cleanses water, and fosters habitat growth has made me realize how much work remains to ensure our environment stays pristine.”
In summary, Smith reflects: “It’s a joy and privilege to be in a business that brings such positivity to people’s lives. Have you ever spotted anyone frowning while enjoying oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
At a dock on the Indian River Lagoon, I’m welcomed by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our skiff glides over the clear waters, she shares that her passion for aquaculture sparked when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at just 14. With a Bachelor of Science degree backing her enthusiasm, she shares, “I cherish being on the boat in the early mornings, soaking in all the sights and sounds—the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees coming up for air.”
Back at the dock, her team dons slickers and begins sorting; damaged oysters are tossed into shallow waters, attracting various fish species. Mariano notes the ecological impact of the farm. “The oysters create a remarkable three-dimensional habitat for juvenile organisms; the farm truly operates as its own ecosystem. Additionally, we’ve fostered job creation within our community for individuals across various age groups.”
The obstacles
Facing mortality events and navigating complex regulations can pose challenges, but the weather remains the largest hurdle. Hurricanes devastate farms; Smith recounts how Helene wiped out his entire year’s work. “It takes grit, innovation, resilience, and flexibility. We find a way to keep forging ahead,” he says.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association offers friendly support, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizing their goal: “Shellfish farmers are some of the hardest working, resilient, and inventive people I know. Our mission is to uplift this remarkable, emerging industry throughout the South and encourage participation. Taste a southern oyster, back a local farmer, and notice the difference.”
Despite the challenges, Ballard from Calusa articulates the sentiments of his fellow farmers: “I wouldn’t trade this career for anything.”
This feature was first published in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (U.S. edition).
