If you’re familiar with oysters, you likely recognize that the northern shores of the United States are famous for their exquisite offerings of this shellfish. East Coast enthusiasts rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets, while West Coast lovers extol the virtues of Kumamotos and Hama Hamas.
However, mention the Southeast’s oysters, and you might see eyebrows raise, lips tighten, and heads shaking disapprovingly. Inferior oysters from warmer waters? Not on my platter of crushed ice. I admit: I used to share that sentiment.
My perspective changed dramatically after trying Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. During an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I met a dedicated group of entrepreneurs committed to improving the image of Southern oysters, benefiting their communities, and nurturing the local ecosystem.
Gracious offers were made to join them for a few days on the farms. So, armed with rubber boots and sunblock, I eagerly ventured into the waters of both the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day One: On the Gulf
On a gorgeous early morning, Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company greets me at South Tampa Bay. His colleague, Reid Ballard, swiftly motors us to their leasehold while Smith shares that he and his wife Maura serendipitously embarked on oyster farming by saying, “We could try this!”
“Our family adores seafood, so it felt like a natural path,” Smith explains, gesturing towards the sparkling waters and clear skies. “Besides, the view from the office is unbeatable.”
In the Southeast, oyster farming is primarily conducted “off-bottom” in estuaries where tides continuously replenish the water with nutrients. Floating cages ahead hold mesh bags filled with oysters at different growth stages.
The day’s main task is harvesting; bringing up a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be quite labor-intensive. Various sea life clings to the cages, with seaweed, crabs, and small fish all around. As Smith points out, “Our farm functions as a floating reef now.”
The contents of the bags are processed through a rotating perforated cylinder, which separates smaller oysters from those ready for harvest. Some of the smaller oysters are allocated to a local restoration project, Oyster River Ecology, which is crucial for maintaining wild populations that support the ecosystem’s health. Smith illustrates the distinction: “cultivation” is for food consumption, “restoration” aims at environmental health.
This somewhat monotonous process of scraping and sorting shares space with personal reflections about their work. Ballard expresses his drive: “Cultivating an animal that sequesters carbon, cleans water, and fosters habitat has made me realize how extensive the work is to keep our environment healthy.”
Smith encapsulates the experience: “Finding a business that brings joy to so many people’s lives is truly rewarding. Do you ever see images of people not smiling while enjoying oysters?”
Day Two: On the Atlantic
I arrive at a dock along the Indian River Lagoon, greeted by Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish. As we glide over the clear waters, she shares that her fascination with aquaculture began when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at just 14 years old. Her Bachelor of Science degree supports her enthusiasm for her chosen career. “I cherish being out on the boat early, absorbing the sounds and scents… the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air.”
Back at the dock, her teammates don waterproof gear and begin sorting and categorizing; any damaged oysters are tossed into the shallow waters where various fish species converge to feed. Mariano highlights the local advantages of the farm, stating, “The oysters create a fantastic vertical habitat for juvenile organisms; the farm is indeed its own little ecosystem. Additionally, we have generated several jobs within our community for individuals of all ages.”
The Challenges
High mortality events and complex regulations can pose significant challenges, but the weather remains the primary obstacle. Hurricanes inflict considerable damage on farms; for instance, Smith at Calusa lost an entire season’s yield due to Helene. “It requires perseverance, hard work, creativity, resilience, and a willingness to adapt. We constantly find ways to overcome and continue moving forward.”
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association provides essential community support, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizing their goal: “Shellfish farmers are some of the most dedicated, inventive, and hard-working individuals I know. We’re eager to elevate this remarkable emerging industry in the South and encourage people to participate. Sample a Southern oyster, support a local farmer, and taste the difference.”
Despite the ongoing challenges, Calusa’s Ballard encapsulates the sentiment among his fellow farmers: “I wouldn’t trade this job for anything.”
This article originally appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of The Windows Clubs magazine (US edition).
