For those familiar with oysters, it’s no secret that the northern U.S. coastlines are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish varieties. Enthusiasts savor East Coast offerings like Beausoleils and Wellfleets, while the West Coast delights in Kumamotos and Hama Hamas.
However, when it comes to Southeast oysters, many turn up their noses, dismissing them as inferior products from warmer waters. I admit I was among these skeptics.
My perception changed drastically after encountering Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I met dedicated entrepreneurs working tirelessly to elevate the reputation of Southern oysters, benefit their communities, and improve the local ecosystem.
With warm invitations in hand, I prepared to spend a few days at the farms, donning rubber boots and applying sunscreen as I set out for the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day one: On the Gulf
As the sun rises, Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. Accompanied by his assistant Reid Ballard, we navigate to their leased waters, where Smith shares how he and his wife Maura serendipitously discovered oyster farming and thought, “We could do that!”
“Our family adores seafood, so it made sense to dive into this,” Smith explains, indicating the stunning surroundings. “Plus, you can’t beat the view from the office.”
Most of the oyster farming in the Southeast takes place “off-bottom” in estuaries where the tide ensures a continuous flow of nutrients. Ahead of us, floating cages are filled with mesh bags of oysters at various growth stages.
Today’s focus is harvesting. Retrieving a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be a physically demanding endeavor. Alongside the cage structures, various marine life flourishes—seaweed, crabs, and tiny fish abound. Smith remarks, “Our farm has become a floating reef.”
The oysters in the bags are poured through a rotating perforated cylinder, separating the smaller ones and directing the harvest-ready oysters into a new channel. Some of the little oysters will go to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, to bolster the wild stock crucial for ecosystem health. Smith clarifies the distinction: “Cultivation” serves consumption, while “restoration” benefits the environment.
The repetitive task of sorting provides space for conversations about the deeper meaning behind this work. Ballard passionately shares, “Cultivating an organism that captures carbon, purifies water, and fosters habitat growth has made me acutely aware of the ongoing efforts required to ensure environmental cleanliness.”
In conclusion, Smith adds, “It’s gratifying to be part of a business that spreads joy in people’s lives. Have you ever seen anyone unhappy while enjoying oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
At a dock located on the Indian River Lagoon, I meet Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish. As we glide across the tranquil waters, Nicolette shares her lifelong fascination with aquaculture, which began at 14 when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. Armed with a Bachelor of Science, she revels in her vocation. “I cherish the morning boat rides, filled with all the sounds and sensations—ospreys, dolphins, and the occasional manatee surfacing for air.”
On returning to the dock, her crew readies themselves by separating and sorting; any damaged oysters are cast back to the shallow waters to nourish the surrounding aquatic life. Mariano speaks about the significant local impact of their farm: “Oysters create an incredible three-dimensional habitat for juvenile organisms; the farm truly maintains its own ecosystem. Furthermore, we’ve generated numerous job opportunities in our community for individuals across various age groups.”
The challenges
While navigating mortality events and intricate regulations can be challenging, inclement weather poses the greatest threat. Hurricanes have devastated farms; Smith from Calusa lost a year’s worth of work due to the impact of Hurricane Helene. “Persistence, ingenuity, resilience, and adaptability are vital. We find ways to overcome these obstacles and keep forging ahead.”
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association extends its community support, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizing their mission: “The shellfish farmers in our network are incredibly dedicated, adaptable, and innovative individuals. Our goal is to elevate this promising industry in the South and encourage others to get involved. Try a southern oyster, back a local farmer, and appreciate the flavor.”
Despite the manifold challenges, Calusa’s Ballard articulates the sentiments of his fellow farmers: “I wouldn’t trade this job for anything.”
This article first appeared in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (U.S. edition).
