For those familiar with seafood, it’s clear that the northern shores of the United States are celebrated for their exquisite oysters. Connoisseurs rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, while Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast enjoy their own devoted fans.
However, when it comes to oysters from the Southeast, the reaction is often less than enthusiastic, with many dismissing them as inferior products from warmer waters. I’ll confess that I used to be among the skeptics.
Everything changed when I had a delightful experience with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered a dedicated group of entrepreneurs determined to elevate the status of Southern oysters, provide economic opportunities for their communities, and promote environmental sustainability.
After receiving warm invitations, I prepared for a hands-on experience at the oyster farms. Equipped with rubber boots and plenty of sunscreen, I set off towards the Atlantic and Gulf waters with excitement.
Day one: On the Gulf
As I arrive at South Tampa Bay, Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me on a splendid morning. His enthusiastic associate, Reid Ballard, pilots the boat toward their leasehold, while Smith shares that he and his wife Maura spontaneously decided to venture into oyster farming, saying, “Why not give it a try?”
“My family has always enjoyed seafood, so it felt like a natural endeavor,” Smith explains, gesturing toward the sparkling waters and brilliant skies. “And honestly, the view from the office is unbeatable.”
The Southeast’s oyster aquaculture predominantly utilizes off-bottom farming methods in estuaries, where tides continually refresh the nutrient content. We navigate through floating cages, each containing mesh bags filled with oysters at various growth stages.
Today’s main task involves harvesting. Hoisting a cage and extracting a deformed bag proves physically demanding, as marine life clings to the cage apparatus, enveloped by seaweed, crabs, and small fish. “Our farm has become a floating reef,” Smith notes.
The bags’ contents are processed through a rotating cylinder that separates smaller oysters from those fit for harvest. The smaller ones will be donated to Oyster River Ecology, contributing to the wild populations essential for the ecosystem’s health. Smith clarifies, “Cultivated oysters are for consumption, whereas restoration efforts focus on ecological health.”
As we scrape and sort the oysters, we find ample time to discuss the motivations behind this work. Ballard expresses his enthusiasm: “Producing an organism that captures carbon, cleanses water, and encourages habitat development has heightened my awareness of the ongoing work necessary to maintain environmental health.”
Smith summarizes this sentiment beautifully: “There’s a joyous aspect to this business that genuinely enhances people’s lives. Have you ever seen anyone not smiling when they’re enjoying oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
I am warmly welcomed at a dock in the Indian River Lagoon by Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish. As we glide across the clear waters, Nicolette shares her long-standing fascination with aquaculture, sparked during her volunteer days at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center as a teenager. With a Bachelor of Science degree enhancing her understanding, she cherishes her work. “Being on the boat in the early hours, absorbing all the natural sounds and scents—the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing—brings me joy,” she says.
At the dock, her team begins to sort and curate the oysters; any that are damaged are tossed back into the shallow waters where various fish species eagerly feed. Mariano highlights the local economic impact of the farm. “Oysters establish a remarkable vertical, three-dimensional habitat for young marine life, making the farm its own mini-ecosystem. We’ve also created numerous jobs for people within our community.”
The Challenges
Among the various hurdles faced, mortality events and complex regulations can pose challenges; however, extreme weather remains the top concern. Hurricanes can devastate farms, as Smith at Calusa experienced when Hurricane Helene destroyed a year’s worth of work. “It requires determination, hard work, creativity, resilience, and flexibility. We adapt and push through,” he explains.
Support for the community is available through the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association. Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizes their commitment: “Shellfish farmers are incredibly hard-working, resilient, and innovative individuals. Our goal is to elevate this emerging industry in the South and encourage people to engage with it. Try a southern oyster, support local farmers, and savor the experience.”
Despite the obstacles, Ballard from Calusa speaks for many farmers when he says, “I wouldn’t trade this job for anything.”
This article was first published in the November/December 2025 edition of The Windows Club magazine (US edition).
