For those with a casual interest in oysters, the northern shores of the U.S. are often celebrated for their exquisite shellfish selections. Enthusiasts rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the Eastern seaboard, while Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast earn their own share of admiration.
However, when it comes to southeastern oysters, many might scrunch their noses and shake their heads in disapproval. Oysters from warmer waters? They simply don’t belong on my ice-cold platter. I must admit, I was once among that crowd of skeptics.
Then, a fortunate discovery of Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, changed my perspective entirely. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered a dedicated group of entrepreneurs working fervently to revitalize the image of Southern oysters, create opportunities for their communities, and promote local environmental health.
I received generous invitations to spend a couple of days at the farms. Donning my rubber boots and slathering on some sunblock, I eagerly made my way to the rich waters of both the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day One: In the Gulf
On a stunning early morning, Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me at South Tampa Bay. His young associate, Reid Ballard, navigates us to their leasehold while Smith shares that he and his wife, Maura, serendipitously discovered oyster farming and thought, “Why not?”
“Our family has a deep love for seafood, making this a natural pursuit,” Smith notes, gesturing at the sparkling waters and azure sky, “plus, the office view is hard to beat.”
Most oyster farming in the Southeast occurs in “off-bottom” environments, benefitting from constantly replenished nutrients due to tides. We observe floating cages filled with mesh bags containing oysters at various growth stages.
Today’s focus is on harvesting. Hauling a cage and removing a flattened bag proves to be quite a workout. The surrounding sea life clings to the cages, with crabs, seaweed, and tiny fish populating the area. Smith remarks, “Our farm has become a floating reef.”
Post-harvest, the contents of the bags are processed through a rotating perforated cylinder that sorts smaller oysters from those that are ready for harvest. Some of these smaller oysters are designated for donation to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, intended to bolster the wild populations crucial to maintaining the ecosystem’s health. Smith clarifies: “Cultivation” is for consumption; “restoration” focuses on environmental health.
The somewhat laborious task of sorting and scraping provides an opportunity to delve into personal experiences. Ballard shares his motivations: “Growing an organism that filters water, stores carbon, and nurtures habitat underscores the importance of maintaining a clean environment.”
Smith encapsulates their work perfectly: “It’s a joy and privilege to have a business that spreads positivity. Have you ever noticed anyone frowning while enjoying oysters?”
Day Two: In the Atlantic
At a dock along the Indian River Lagoon, I meet Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our skiff glides over the crystal waters, she shares that her fascination with aquaculture began when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at age 14. Her Bachelor’s degree supports her personal affinity for her profession. “There’s nothing quite like being out on a boat at dawn, soaking in the surroundings—the sounds and the smell of the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees breaking the water’s surface,” she expresses.
Upon our return to the dock, her team begins to sort through the oysters, discarding the damaged ones back into the water, where schools of fish eagerly gather. Mariano emphasizes the community benefits: “Oysters establish a remarkable three-dimensional habitat that supports juvenile organisms, making the farm a thriving ecosystem. Plus, our operations have generated numerous local jobs across various ages.”
The Hurdles
From unpredictable mortality events to complex regulations, various obstacles pose challenges; however, inclement weather is the primary difficulty. Hurricanes can devastate farms, as evidenced by Smith’s experience with Hurricane Helene, which destroyed an entire season’s output. “It demands lasting commitment, proactive problem-solving, and adaptability,” he explains. “We find ways to work around these hurdles to persist.”
Community support comes from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association. Its Executive Director, Adrianne Johnson, states, “The resilience and innovation of shellfish farmers are remarkable. We aim to elevate this burgeoning industry in the South and welcome everyone to participate—try a southern oyster, lend local farmers your support, and taste the difference.”
Despite various challenges, Calusa’s Ballard expresses the sentiment of many farmers: “I wouldn’t trade this work for anything.”
This article first appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of The Windows Club magazine (U.S. edition).
