If you’re somewhat familiar with oysters, you likely know that the northern U.S. coasts are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish. Enthusiasts rave about the East’s Beausoleils and Wellfleets, and the West’s Kumamotos and Hama Hamas.
However, when the seafood of the Southeast is brought up, many turn up their noses, pursing lips and shaking heads. Oysters from warmer waters? Not likely to grace my platter of crushed ice! To be honest, I was once among these skeptics.
Then, a chance encounter with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, changed my perspective entirely. At the Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I was introduced to an enthusiastic group of founders dedicated to reclaiming the Southern oyster’s reputation, benefiting their communities, and improving the local ecosystem.
I received generous invitations to spend a few days working on the farms. Armed with rubber boots and slathered in sunscreen, I was excited to dive into the experiences awaiting me in the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day One: Gulf Experience
As the sun rises over South Tampa Bay, Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me. Reid Ballard, a young team member, motors us out to their leasehold as Smith recounts how he and his wife Maura stumbled into oyster farming, thinking, “Hey, we could do that!”
“We’ve always enjoyed seafood, so it felt like a natural venture,” Smith emphasizes, showcasing the shimmering waters and clear blue skies. “Additionally, the office view is unbeatable.”
Much of the oyster farming in the Southeast occurs in estuaries, known as “off-bottom” aquaculture, where tides refresh the waters with nutrients. Floating cages brimming with mesh bags housing oysters at different growth stages bob on the surface as we approach.
The main goal for today is harvesting. Pulling up a cage and extracting a flattened bag is quite physically demanding. The cage teems with life, adorned with seaweed, crabs, and tiny fish. As Smith describes it: “Our farm has evolved into a floating reef.”
The oysters are processed in a rotating cylinder that sorts the smaller ones and channels those ready for harvest. Some of the smaller oysters will find a new home in a local conservation initiative, Oyster River Ecology, to bolster wild populations essential to the aquatic ecosystem. Smith distinguishes between the concepts: “cultivation” serves for consumption, while “restoration” benefits the environment.
This somewhat monotonous task of sorting opens up opportunities to discuss personal stories. Ballard shares his motivation: “Cultivating an animal that captures carbon, cleans water, and supports habitat development has widened my awareness of the work needed to keep our environment clean.”
To summarize, Smith says, “Discovering an industry that brings such joy to people’s lives is an amazing experience. Do you ever see anyone frowning while eating oysters?”
Day Two: Atlantic Adventures
At the dock on Indian River Lagoon, I am welcomed by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our skiff glides over the pristine water, she shares that her love for aquaculture began when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at 14. With a Bachelor of Science degree, her enjoyment of her field is grounded in education. “I cherish being out on the water at dawn, soaking in the sights and sounds… like the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air.”
Upon returning to the dock, her crew starts sorting through the oysters, tossing damaged ones into the shallows, where fish eagerly swarm to feed. Mariano reflects on the farm’s local significance. “The oysters establish a vertical three-dimensional habitat for juvenile organisms; the farm effectively becomes its own ecosystem. Plus, we’ve generated several jobs in our community across various age groups.”
The Hurdles
While mortality events and stringent regulations pose challenges, the weather remains the most formidable obstacle. Smith at Calusa recalls that an entire year’s accumulation was destroyed by Hurricane Helene. “It requires tenacity, creativity, resilience, and flexibility. We simply find ways to adapt and press on.”
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association provides strong community backing, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson asserting their mission: “Shellfish farmers are among the most dedicated, resilient, and innovative individuals I know. We aspire to elevate this promising industry in the South, welcoming people to participate. Support local farmers by trying southern oysters and tasting the difference.”
Despite facing numerous challenges, Ballard of Calusa expresses the sentiments of many: “I wouldn’t trade this job for anything.”
This article first appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (U.S. version).
