If you’re even slightly familiar with oysters, you’re likely aware that the northern U.S. coasts are celebrated for their exceptional shellfish varieties. Enthusiasts rave about the Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East, while Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West receive equally high praise.
However, bring up the topic of Southeastern oysters, and you might encounter skepticism, with people wrinkling their noses, pursing their lips, and shaking their heads in disapproval. Oysters from warmer waters are often dismissed as subpar? Definitely not on my platter of crushed ice. Honesty requires me to confess that I was once among those skeptics.
Then, a chance meeting with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, broadened my perspective (and palate) significantly. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I met a dedicated group of passionate entrepreneurs intent on improving the reputation of southern oysters, enriching their communities, and bolstering the local ecosystem.
I received welcoming invitations to spend a couple of days working at the farms. Equipped with rubber boots and generously applying sunblock, I set off for the waters of the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day One: On the Gulf
On a stunning early morning, Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company welcomes me to South Tampa Bay. His enthusiastic partner, Reid Ballard, navigates us to their lease area as Smith shares that he and his wife, Maura, serendipitously discovered oyster farming and thought, “Why not give it a try?”
“My family has always enjoyed seafood, so diving into this field felt natural,” he remarks, gesturing towards the sparkling waters and clear skies. “Besides, the work environment is unbeatable.”
Most oyster farming in the Southeast takes place “off-bottom” in estuaries, where the tides consistently refresh the nutrients in the water. Ahead of us, floating cages house mesh bags filled with oysters at various stages of growth.
The primary task for the day revolves around harvesting. Hoisting a cage and extracting a flat bag proves to be labor-intensive. The cage is teeming with marine life—seaweed, crabs, and small fish abound. As Smith remarks, “Our farm has become like a floating reef.”
The contents of the bags go through a rotating, perforated cylinder, which separates the smaller oysters, directing those that are ready for harvest. Some of these smaller oysters are earmarked for donation to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, helping sustain the wild oyster populations essential to water health. Smith clarifies: “cultivation” is for eating, while “restoration” focuses on environmental benefit.
Diving into the somewhat repetitive task of scraping and sorting allows space for personal reflections about this lifestyle. Ballard shares what motivates him: “Farming an organism that sequesters carbon, improves water clarity, and fosters habitat growth has made me realize how much work remains to sustain a clean environment.”
And in summary, Smith adds, “It’s truly a joy and privilege to find a business that positively impacts people’s lives. Honestly, have you ever come across a photo of someone who isn’t smiling while enjoying oysters?”
Day Two: On the Atlantic
At a dock on the Indian River Lagoon, I am greeted by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As we propel out over the crystal-clear waters, Nicolette, who developed a fascination for aquaculture as a 14-year-old volunteer at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center, shares her passion. Her background in science anchors her enjoyment of her career choice. “I relish those early mornings on the boat, absorbing all the sounds and scents—the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air.”
Back at the dock, her crew coats up and begins the process of separating and sorting; damaged oysters are thrown back into the shallow waters, where various fish species come to feed. Mariano reflects on the local advantages of the operation. “The oysters form a spectacular vertical habitat for young marine organisms; the farm functions as a unique ecosystem. We’ve also created numerous job opportunities for people in our community across different age groups.”
Facing Challenges
Adverse weather events, intricate regulations, and high mortality rates can pose significant hurdles; however, weather conditions remain the most formidable challenge. Hurricanes can devastate farms. For instance, Smith at Calusa experienced a catastrophic loss due to Hurricane Helene, wiping out an entire year’s worth of work. “It requires persistence, creativity, resilience, and adaptability. We find alternative solutions and press on.”
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association backs farmers within the community, and their Executive Director Adrianne Johnson expresses their commitment: “Shellfish farmers are incredibly hardworking, resilient, and innovative individuals. We strive to uplift this burgeoning industry in the South and encourage everyone to participate. Taste a southern oyster, support local farmers, and notice the difference.”
Despite the many challenges, Ballard from Calusa expresses the sentiment of the farming community: “I wouldn’t trade this experience for anything.”
This piece originally appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of The Windows Club magazine (US version).
