If you’re somewhat familiar with oysters, you likely recognize that the northern shores of the US are famous for their exquisite shellfish varieties. Enthusiasts rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, while in the West, Kumamotos and Hama Hamas garner equal admiration.
However, when the conversation shifts to the Southeastern oysters, skepticism often arises; people scrunch their noses and shake their heads at the thought of subpar oysters from warmer waters. Admittedly, I used to be one of those critics.
Everything changed when I had a delightful taste of Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach in Florida. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I met a dedicated group of entrepreneurs who are committed to reviving the Southern oyster’s reputation, adding value to their communities and improving local ecosystems.
With warm invitations to spend a few days on the farms, I packed my rubber boots, slathered on some sunscreen, and eagerly set off for the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day One: On the Gulf
As the sun rises on a picturesque morning, Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His colleague, Reid Ballard, takes us out to their leasehold while Smith recounts how he and his wife Maura surprisingly discovered oyster farming and agreed, “Why not give it a go?”
“My family adores seafood, so it made sense to dive into this,” Smith remarks, gesturing at the sparkling waters under clear blue skies. “Additionally, this office view is quite unbeatable.”
Most oyster farming in the Southeast is carried out “off-bottom” in estuaries, where the tides keep the waters nutritionally rich. Floating cages bob in the water, each containing mesh bags filled with oysters at various growth stages.
Today, our main focus is on harvesting. Hoisting a cage and extracting a dense bag proves to be a labor-intensive job. Various sea creatures cling to the cage, surrounded by crabs, seaweed, and small fish. As Smith observes, “Our farm serves as a floating reef now.”
The bags’ contents are processed through a rotating cylinder that sifts out the smaller oysters while directing the harvest-ready ones. Some of these smaller oysters will be donated to Oyster River Ecology, a local restoration effort intended to bolster wild oyster populations essential for the health of these waters. Smith differentiates between “cultivation” for eating and “restoration” for environmental enhancement.
Despite the repetitive and strenuous nature of scraping and sorting, it becomes an opportunity to discuss the personal rewards of this lifestyle. Ballard shares his motivation: “Growing an organism that captures carbon, filters water, and fosters habitat growth has deepened my appreciation for the work needed to keep our environment clean.”
Smith sums it up well: “Finding a venture that brings so much joy to people’s lives is both fulfilling and a privilege. Have you ever seen anyone not smiling while enjoying oysters?”
Day Two: On the Atlantic
Arriving at the dock of the Indian River Lagoon, I meet Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our skiff glides across the clear waters, Mariana shares how a 14-year-old volunteer stint at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center sparked her passion for aquaculture. Armed with a Bachelor of Science degree, she indulges in her career with enthusiasm. “Being on the boat early in the morning, surrounded by the sounds of nature—the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees—is a true delight.”
Once back at the dock, her crew dons their slickers and starts the separation and sorting process, discarding damaged oysters into shallow waters, attracting various fish that gather to feed. Mariano happily notes the community advantages that arise from their farm. “These oysters form a remarkable vertical habitat for young organisms; it’s like a miniature ecosystem. Plus, we’ve established numerous job opportunities for people of all ages in our community.”
Overcoming Challenges
Farming oysters has its hurdles, particularly dealing with high mortality rates and intricate regulations. However, unpredictable weather becomes the primary adversary; hurricanes can devastate farms. Smith from Calusa recalls losing an entire year’s worth of work due to Hurricane Helene. “This line of work demands determination, effort, resourcefulness, and the ability to adapt. We simply find ways to push through and keep on trucking.”
Support comes from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, whose Executive Director Adrianne Johnson highlights their aim: “Shellfish farmers are among the most diligent, innovative, and resilient individuals I’ve encountered. We aim to uplift this remarkable budding industry in the South and invite everyone to join in. Savor a southern oyster, champion a local farmer, and experience the difference for yourself.”
Despite numerous obstacles, Ballard from Calusa expresses the sentiments of many farmers: “I wouldn’t trade this for any amount of money.”
This article first appeared in the November/December 2025 issue of TheWindowsClub magazine (US edition).
