If you’re familiar with oysters, you’re likely aware that the northern U.S. coasts are famous for their delicious shellfish. Enthusiasts rave about the Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, while praising Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast.
However, when it comes to oysters from the Southeast, many tend to be skeptical, often scoffing at the idea of warm-water oysters gracing their ice-cold platters. I confess, I used to belong to this group of skeptics.
That was until I tried Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. My participation in an Oyster South symposium held in St. Augustine introduced me to a dedicated group of entrepreneurs committed to rehabilitating the image of Southern oysters, generating community value, and improving their local ecology.
After receiving warm invitations, I packed my rubber boots and sunscreen and ventured to the waters of the Atlantic and the Gulf for a couple of days on the farms.
Day One: In the Gulf
This lovely early morning, Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His enthusiastic partner, Reid Ballard, navigates us to their lease while Smith shares that he and his wife Maura came across oyster farming almost by chance and thought, “We could do this!”
“Our family has always enjoyed seafood, so it felt like a natural venture,” Smith says, gesturing to the sparkling waters and clear skies. “Plus, this office view is unbeatable.”
The typical oyster farming in the Southeast occurs in off-bottom estuaries where the tides continuously infuse nutrients into the water. Floating cages bobbing in the water contain mesh bags filled with oysters at different growth stages.
Our main task today involves harvesting. Pulling up a cage and extracting a flattened bag is surprisingly labor-intensive. Marine life flourishes around the cages, with seaweed, crabs, and small fish aplenty. Smith notes, “Our farm now resembles a floating reef.”
The oysters are processed through a rotating perforated cylinder that separates the smaller ones, targeting those ready for harvest. Smaller oysters will be donated to Oyster River Ecology’s restoration initiative to support wild populations essential for these waters’ health. Smith clarifies the distinction: “Cultivation is for consumption, restoration is for ecological health.”
This meticulous task of sorting allows for deeper conversations about personal motivations in oyster farming. Ballard shares his passion: “Nurturing animals that sequester carbon, filter water, and support habitat growth has opened my eyes to the ongoing efforts needed to maintain a clean environment.”
Wrapping up the day, Smith adds, “Discovering a business that spreads joy to others is such a rarity and a privilege. Have you ever seen a photo of someone not smiling while enjoying oysters?”
Day Two: In the Atlantic
On the Indian River Lagoon, I meet Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our skiff glides over the pristine waters, she shares her lifelong passion for aquaculture, sparked as a 14-year-old volunteer at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. With a Bachelor of Science degree backing her personal interest, she states, “Being out on the boat early in the morning, surrounded by the sounds and smells of nature—ospreys, dolphins, and manatees—is such a thrill.”
Back at the dock, her crew suits up to sort and separate oysters; damaged ones are tossed into shallow waters, attracting various fish species. Mariano emphasizes the local benefits of their farm: “The oysters create a remarkable vertical habitat for juvenile organisms; the farm operates as its own little ecosystem, and has generated numerous job opportunities for individuals of all ages in our community.”
Facing Challenges
Farmers face numerous challenges, particularly fluctuating weather, which can wreak havoc on their operations. Hurricanes have devastated farms; Smith from Calusa recounted a year’s worth of work lost to Hurricane Helene. “It requires hard work, resilience, creativity, and adaptability. We simply figure out a way to push through,” he says.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association provides community backing, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson championing their mission: “The shellfish farming community comprises some of the most hardworking, innovative individuals. We aim to support this rising industry in the South and invite people to join us. Choose a Southern oyster, support local farmers, and savor the difference.”
Despite the hurdles, Ballard from Calusa reflects the sentiment of his peers: “I wouldn’t trade this experience for anything.”
This piece was initially published in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (U.S. edition).
