Anyone familiar with oysters recognizes that the northern U.S. coastlines are famous for their exquisite shellfish varieties. Enthusiasts delight in the Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East, while praising the Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West.
However, when the conversation turns to oysters from the Southeast, many respond with skepticism, their expressions revealing a distaste. “Oysters from warm waters? Not on my ice-filled platter.” To be honest, I was once among the skeptics.
My perspective shifted dramatically after I encountered the Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. Attending an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered a dedicated group of enthusiastic entrepreneurs working tirelessly to elevate the reputation of Southern oysters, foster community growth, and improve the local ecosystem.
I received warm invitations to spend a few days helping out on their farms. With rubber boots packed and sunblock applied, I excitedly made my way toward the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day one: On the Gulf
On a lovely morning, Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company welcomes me to South Tampa Bay. His enthusiastic partner, Reid Ballard, ushers us out to their lease as Smith recounts how he and his wife Maura serendipitously found themselves in oyster farming, saying to one another, “We could do this!”
“Seafood has always been a family favorite, so it felt like a natural venture to pursue,” shares Smith, gesturing towards the picturesque waters and bright skies. “And honestly, the view here is unmatched.”
In the Southeast, most oyster farming occurs in estuaries using “off-bottom” methods, where tidal movements constantly refresh the water’s nutrients. Ahead of us, floating cages bob in the swells, each containing mesh bags filled with oysters at different growth stages.
This day’s major task is harvesting. Raising a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves more challenging than expected. Sea life surrounds the cage, with crabs, tiny fish, and seaweed abundant. “Our farm has become a floating reef,” Smith observes.
The oysters are passed through a spinning perforated cylinder to differentiate between the smaller ones and those ready for harvesting. Portions of the smaller oysters will be contributed to a local ecological project, Oyster River Ecology, aimed at bolstering the wild oyster population essential for the local ecosystem’s health. Smith distinguishes between the two purposes: “cultivation” is for food, while “restoration” benefits the environment.
The detailed process of sorting and cleaning provides opportunities for personal stories to emerge. Ballard expresses his passion, noting, “Cultivating an animal that sequesters carbon, filters water, and promotes habitat development has made me realize how much work lies ahead in keeping our environment clean.”
Smith encapsulates the experience: “Finding work that spreads joy and positivity is incredibly rewarding. After all, how often do you see someone frowning while savoring oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
On the shores of the Indian River Lagoon, I meet Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish. As we glide along the crystal waters, she reveals that her fascination with aquaculture began when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at just 14. With a Bachelor of Science in hand, her passion for this field is both professional and personal. “Experiencing the early morning on the boat—the sounds and smells, the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air—fills me with joy.”
Back at the dock, her team gears up for sorting; any damaged oysters are returned to the shallow waters, where a variety of fish gather to feed. Mariano highlights the local advantages presented by their farm. “The oysters create an impressive three-dimensional habitat for young organisms; truly, the farm acts as its own ecosystem. Plus, our operations have provided numerous jobs to our community, catering to individuals of all ages.”
The challenges
While mortality rates and intricate regulations can pose challenges, the weather remains the largest hurdle. Hurricanes can devastate farms; Smith at Calusa recalls losing an entire year’s work due to Hurricane Helene. “Persistence, hard work, creativity, resilience, and adaptability are crucial. We adapt, persevere, and keep pushing forward,” he explains.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association offers substantial community support, led by Executive Director Adrianne Johnson, who sums up their mission: “Shellfish farmers are some of the hardest working, most resilient and inventive people I know. We aim to elevate this promising industry in the South and encourage everyone to join in. Try a southern oyster, support a local farmer, experience the flavor.”
Despite the numerous challenges, Ballard from Calusa declares on behalf of his farming peers: “I wouldn’t exchange this job for anything in the world.”
This article was first published in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (U.S. edition).
