Oysters are a familiar topic for many, especially given the Northern US coasts’ reputation for exquisite shellfish. Connoisseurs rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East, while Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West also receive lavish praise.
However, when the discussion turns to Southeastern oysters, there’s often skepticism, as many dismiss them as inferior shellfish from warmer waters. I’ll admit, I used to share that viewpoint.
It wasn’t until I encountered Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, that my perspective changed dramatically. During an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I met a dedicated group of entrepreneurs determined to revive the Southern oyster’s reputation, generate value for their communities, and improve the local ecosystem.
With warm invites to spend a few days on their farms, I grabbed my rubber boots and slathered on sunblock, ready to explore the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day one: On the gulf
On a stunning early morning, Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me at South Tampa Bay. His companion, Reid Ballard, navigates us to their lease as Smith shares how he and his wife Maura didn’t plan to become oyster farmers until they decided, “Hey, we could do that!”
“Our family enjoys seafood, so it was a natural path to take,” Smith explains while gesturing to the sparkling waters and blue sky. “And the office scenery is unmatched.”
Typically, oyster farming in the Southeast involves “off-bottom” methods within estuaries, benefiting from nutrient-rich tides. Floating cages ahead hold mesh bags containing oysters at several growth stages.
Today’s focus is on harvesting. Pulling up a cage to extract a flattened bag proves to be quite a workout. The cage structures host various marine life, including crabs, seaweed, and small fish. “Our farm has become a floating reef,” notes Smith.
The bags’ contents are processed through a rotating cylinder, which sorts the smaller oysters while directing those ready for harvest. Some of the smaller oysters will support the Oyster River Ecology initiative for local restoration efforts, reinforcing wild populations necessary for these waters’ health. Smith emphasizes the distinction: “Cultivation is for food, while restoration serves the ecosystem.”
This labor-intensive scraping and sorting provide an opportunity to delve into personal motivations. Ballard shares his strong commitment: “Farming an animal that captures carbon, filters water, and fosters habitat development has made me realize the ongoing work required to keep our environment pristine.”
Concluding, Smith adds: “Finding a job that brings joy to so many is incredibly rewarding. Have you ever seen a photo of someone not smiling while eating oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
At a dock on the Indian River Lagoon, I am greeted by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our skiff glides across the pristine waters, Nicolette shares her long-standing fascination with aquaculture, sparked when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at just 14 years old. She also possesses a Bachelor of Science degree that complements her love for the field. “There’s something magical about being on the boat early in the morning, surrounded by the sounds and sights—ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air,” she reflects.
Back at the dock, her team gears up to sort through the oysters; damaged ones are tossed into the shallows, quickly becoming a feast for local fish species. Mariano highlights the ecological benefits of their farm: “Oysters create a remarkable vertical habitat for young sea life; the farm genuinely operates as its own ecosystem. Plus, we’ve provided employment opportunities for our local community across various age groups.”
The challenges
While mortality rates and regulatory complexities present challenges, weather often poses the greatest risk. Hurricanes can devastate farms, as Smith from Calusa attests, recalling how his entire year’s yield was destroyed by Hurricane Helene. “Success depends on perseverance, creativity, adaptability, and resilience. We always manage to navigate through it and continue onward,” he states.
Support from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association plays a vital role; Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizes their commitment: “Shellfish farmers are some of the hardest-working and most innovative individuals. We aim to elevate this burgeoning industry in the South and encourage people to get involved. Support local growers, try our Southern oysters, and taste the difference.”
Despite numerous hurdles, Ballard from Calusa expresses his fulfillment: “I wouldn’t swap this job for anything, not even a million dollars.”
This article first appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
