If you’re even slightly familiar with oysters, it’s no surprise that the northern shores of the US are famous for their exquisite shellfish varieties. Oyster enthusiasts rave about the Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, and extol the virtues of Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast.
However, when the topic of Southeastern oysters arises, reactions are often skeptical, with raised eyebrows and disappointed looks. “Second-rate oysters from warm waters? Not for me!” was my sentiment too, to be entirely honest.
But my perspective changed dramatically after tasting Shark Bite oysters sourced from New Smyrna Beach in Florida. During an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered dedicated entrepreneurs focused on redeeming the reputation of Southern oysters, benefiting their communities, and improving the local ecosystem.
I received warm invitations to spend a couple of days on the farms. Armed with rubber boots and plenty of sunscreen, I enthusiastically journeyed to the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day one: On the Gulf
On this splendid morning, Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His young associate, Reid Ballard, guides us to their lease area. Smith shares that he and his wife Maura serendipitously discovered oyster farming and thought, “Why not give it a try?”
“Seafood is a staple in my family, so it felt like a natural path to pursue,” Smith explains, indicating the sparkling waters and bright blue sky. “And the view beats any office.”
Much of the oyster farming in the Southeast involves “off-bottom” techniques in estuarine areas, where tides continually replenish essential nutrients. We see floating cages ahead, each containing mesh bags filled with oysters at various growth stages.
Today’s key activity involves harvesting. Bringing up a cage and extracting a flattened bag is surprisingly labor-intensive. Sea life thrives around the cages, with crabs, seaweed, and small fish abound. As Smith observes, “Our farm has become a floating reef.”
Once harvested, the bags are processed through a rotating sieve that separates the smaller oysters from those ready to be served. The smaller oysters are set aside for a local restoration project, Oyster River Ecology, to bolster wild populations essential for the health of these waters. Smith defines the distinction: “cultivation” is aimed at consumption, while “restoration” serves ecological purposes.
This somewhat monotonous task of sorting provides an opportunity for personal exchange. Ballard expresses his motivations: “Cultivating an organism that captures carbon, purifies water, and fosters habitat growth has shown me how much work remains to clean up our environment.”
Smith captures the sentiment perfectly: “Finding a job that spreads joy to others is a joy in itself. Have you ever seen anyone not smiling while eating oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
Aboard a dock on the Indian River Lagoon, I am met by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As we glide over the pristine waters, Mariano shares her long-standing fascination with aquaculture, sparked during her days as a volunteer at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center when she was just 14. Her Bachelor of Science provides a strong foundation for her career satisfaction. “I adore being on the boat in the early morning, appreciating all the sights and sounds… the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air.”
Upon returning to the dock, her team suits up and begins to clarify and categorize the oysters; any damaged specimens are tossed back into the shallow waters, where various fish species eagerly feed. Mariano reflects on the local advantages provided by the farm. “The oysters construct an incredible vertical habitat that houses juvenile organisms; the farm is genuinely its own ecosystem. Moreover, we’ve created numerous jobs in our community for people of all ages.”
Challenges faced
Encountering mortality events and navigating complex regulations can be testing, but severe weather poses the greatest risk. Hurricanes can devastate farms; Smith from Calusa experienced the loss of an entire year’s yield due to Hurricane Helene. “It requires determination, hard work, creativity, resilience, and the ability to adapt. We always find a way through and keep going.”
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association offers invaluable community support, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizing their goals: “Shellfish farmers embody hard work, resilience, and innovation. Our aim is to elevate this incredible emerging Southern industry and encourage participation. Try a southern oyster, back a local farmer, and experience the difference.”
Despite numerous challenges, Ballard at Calusa voices the sentiments of fellow farmers: “I wouldn’t swap this job for anything.”
This piece was originally featured in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
