If you’re even slightly familiar with oysters, it’s no surprise that the northern U.S. coastlines are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish selections. Enthusiasts rave about the Beausoleils and Wellfleets of the East Coast, while the Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West garner similar admiration.
Yet, the mere mention of oysters from the Southeast often meets with skepticism, eyebrows raised, and heads shaking. Subpar oysters from warmer waters? Count me out. I admit I was once among that group of skeptics.
However, a chance introduction to Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach in Florida changed my perspective entirely. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered a dedicated group of entrepreneurs passionate about reviving the reputation of Southern oysters, generating community value, and improving local ecosystems.
Invitations to spend several days on their farms were gladly accepted. Armed with rubber boots and sunscreen, I set out for the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day one: On the gulf
On a lovely early morning, Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His colleague, Reid Ballard, drives us to their lease as Smith shares how he and his wife Maura serendipitously discovered the oyster farming venture and thought, “Why not?”
“Given my family’s love for seafood, it seemed like a natural pursuit,” comments Smith, gesturing at the sparkling waters and clear skies. “And the workspace is unbeatable.”
Most oyster farming in the Southeast occurs in estuaries with “off-bottom” methods, where tides frequently refresh the nutrients in the water. Floating cages filled with mesh bags containing oysters at various growth stages bob ahead of us.
Our main mission today is harvesting. Lifting a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be a demanding task. The cage structures are encrusted with marine life, showcasing seaweed, crabs, and small fish everywhere. As Smith observes: “Our farm is now akin to a floating reef.”
The oysters are sorted through a rotating perforated cylinder, filtering out the smaller specimens and directing the harvest-ready ones for collection. Some of the smaller oysters will be contributed to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, to bolster wild populations essential for a healthy ecosystem. Smith explains the distinction: “Cultivation” is for consumption, while “restoration” serves the environment.
The somewhat labor-intensive process of scraping and sorting creates a chance to delve into the personal motivations behind this work. Ballard shares his commitment: “Cultivating an organism that sequesters carbon, cleanses water, and fosters habitat growth has made me realize the extensive efforts needed to maintain a clean environment.”
Smith sums it up perfectly: “It’s a joy and a privilege to find a business that brings so much happiness into people’s lives. Honestly, do you ever see anyone not smiling when indulging in oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
At the Indian River Lagoon dock, Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish greets me. As our skiff glides over the clear waters, she shares her longstanding fascination with aquaculture, which began when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at age 14. With her Bachelor of Science degree complementing her passion, she states, “I relish being on the boat in the early morning, soaking in the natural sounds and scents—ostriches, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air.”
Back at the dock, her team starts the process of separating and sorting oysters, discarding the damaged ones into shallow waters where various fish species gather to feed. Mariano expresses the local benefits brought by the farm: “Our oysters form a remarkable three-dimensional habitat for juvenile organisms; essentially, the farm is an ecosystem in itself. Additionally, we’ve created numerous job opportunities for individuals in our community of all ages.”
The challenges
Facing challenges like mortality events and intricate regulations is tough, but the weather remains the primary adversary. Hurricanes can devastate farms—Smith at Calusa recounted a year’s worth of effort wiped out by Hurricane Helene. “It requires determination, creativity, resilience, and flexibility. We keep pushing through, finding ways to adapt and move forward.”
Support for local farmers comes from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, whose Executive Director Adrianne Johnson highlights their mission: “Shellfish farmers are among the hardest working, most innovative individuals I know. We aim to uplift this remarkable emerging industry in the South and invite everyone to be engaged. Sample a Southern oyster, back a local farmer, and savor the distinction.”
Despite the numerous obstacles, Ballard from Calusa expresses the sentiments shared by his fellow farmers: “I wouldn’t trade this career for anything.”
This article first appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (U.S. edition).
