Those familiar with oysters are well aware that the northern U.S. shores are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish. Enthusiasts rave about East Coast varieties like Beausoleils and Wellfleets, while Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast also receive much acclaim.
However, when Southeastern oysters come up in conversation, they often receive a skeptical response, with many dismissing them as inferior due to their warmer habitats. I must admit, I was one of the skeptics.
Everything changed when I encountered Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. Attending an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine introduced me to a dedicated group of entrepreneurs working tirelessly to elevate the status of Southern oysters, create economic opportunities for their communities, and promote environmental health.
Invitations to join them on their farms for a couple of days were graciously extended. Excitedly, I packed my rubber boots and sunscreen and set off towards the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
First Day: Exploring the Gulf
On a stunning early morning, Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company welcomes me to South Tampa Bay, with his colleague, Reid Ballard, at the helm of their boat, guiding us toward their leasehold. Smith shares that he and his wife Maura serendipitously discovered oyster farming and thought, “Why not?”
“We’re a seafood-loving family, so pursuing this made sense,” Smith explains while gesturing toward the beautiful waters and clear blue skies. “Plus, this office view is unbeatable.”
In the Southeast, most oyster farming takes place “off-bottom” in nutrient-rich estuarine waters. Floating cages filled with mesh bags of oysters in various growth stages drift gently around us.
Today’s focus is on harvesting. Lifting an entire cage and extracting a flat bag proves more strenuous than anticipated, while sea life clings to the cage—seaweed, crabs, and tiny fish abound. Smith notes, “Our farm has turned into a floating reef.”
The contents of the bags are processed through a rotating perforated cylinder that sorts smaller oysters, funneling those ready for harvest. The smaller ones are donated to Oyster River Ecology to bolster local wild populations crucial for water health. Smith distinguishes between the two concepts: “cultivation” is aimed at consumption, whereas “restoration” benefits the ecosystem.
This somewhat labor-intensive sorting process allows for personal storytelling. Ballard passionately shares, “Farming a creature that sequesters carbon, cleans water, and creates habitats has opened my eyes to how much more work is needed to maintain our environment.”
Smith encapsulates the sentiment: “It’s a joy and honor to find a business that positively impacts people’s lives. Have you ever seen anyone unhappy while enjoying oysters?”
Second Day: Venturing to the Atlantic
A dock along the Indian River Lagoon is my next stop, where Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish greets me. As we glide across the transparent waters in our skiff, she reveals her love for aquaculture began when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at age 14. With a Bachelor of Science degree backing her, Mariano expresses, “I adore early mornings on the boat, soaking in the sounds and scents—the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air.”
At the dock, her team suits up to sort and separate the oysters; those deemed damaged are returned to the shallow waters, drawing in various fish species that feed. Mariano reflects on the local benefits of their farming efforts: “The oysters not only provide a vertical habitat for young organisms but also create a self-sustaining ecosystem. Moreover, we’ve generated numerous jobs within our community.”
Facing the Challenges
Mortality events and myriad regulations often pose significant challenges for oyster farmers, but the most formidable obstacle comes from unpredictable weather. Hurricanes can devastate crops—Smith at Calusa lost an entire season’s harvest to Hurricane Helene. He emphasizes, “It demands perseverance, hard work, creativity, resilience, and flexibility. We always seek ways to navigate these hurdles and continue.”
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, under the leadership of Executive Director Adrianne Johnson, lends support to farmers, stressing their hard work and innovative spirit. “We aim to elevate this promising industry in the South and encourage everyone to get involved. Support local farmers by trying Southern oysters and enjoy the difference.”
Despite the formidable challenges they face, Ballard from Calusa enthusiastically states, “I wouldn’t swap this job for anything, not even a million dollars.”
This article originally appeared in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (U.S. edition).
