For those familiar with oysters, the northern shores of the U.S. are famous for their exquisite shellfish varieties. Enthusiasts celebrate Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast while praising Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast.
However, when the conversation turns to oysters from the Southeast, many react with disdain, turning their noses up at what they perceive as inferior varieties from warmer waters. Full disclosure: I used to belong to this group.
That was until I had a fortuitous encounter with Shark Bite oysters hailing from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, which opened my palate to a previously unappreciated realm. During an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I met a dedicated group of ambitious entrepreneurs aiming to revitalize the Southern oyster’s reputation, promote local economies, and improve the environment.
I was graciously invited to spend a few days working on the farms, and with rubber boots packed and sunscreen on, I enthusiastically made my way to the shores of the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day one: On the gulf
On a stunning early morning, I meet Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company in South Tampa Bay. His young assistant, Reid Ballard, navigates us to their leasehold, as Smith recounts how he and his wife stumbled into the world of oyster farming, thinking, “We could do that!”
“Our family adores seafood, so it felt like a natural venture,” Smith reflects, gesturing toward the sparkling waters and clear skies. “Moreover, it’s hard to beat this office view.”
In Southeast aquaculture, oysters largely thrive in off-bottom systems within estuaries, where ebbing tides continuously replenish nutrients. Floating cages ahead contain mesh bags filled with oysters at various developmental stages.
Today’s focus is on harvesting. Bringing up a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be quite labor-intensive. The structures are home to various marine life, with seaweed, crabs, and small fish abundant. Smith remarks, “Our farm resembles a floating reef now.”
The bags’ contents are processed through a rotating perforated cylinder to sort smaller oysters and channel those ready for harvesting. The smaller oysters will be donated to a local restoration effort called Oyster River Ecology to bolster wild populations essential to the local ecosystem. Smith emphasizes the distinction: “cultivation” caters to consumption, whereas “restoration” benefits the environment.
The somewhat monotonous job of sorting presents an opportunity to discuss the personal fulfillment derived from this work. Ballard shares his motivation: “Cultivating an organism that sequesters carbon, cleanses water, and fosters habitat growth has made me acutely aware of the ongoing efforts needed to maintain environmental cleanliness.”
In Smith’s words, “Discovering a business that positively impacts so many lives is a joy and a privilege. Have you ever seen anyone not smiling when eating oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
I am welcomed by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish at a dock along the Indian River Lagoon. As our boat glides across the clear water, she shares her long-standing fascination with aquaculture, which began at 14 when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. A Bachelor of Science degree adds to her enthusiasm for her career. “Early mornings on the water, experiencing all the natural sounds and scents—the ospreys, dolphins, manatees surfacing for air—this is what I love.”
Back at the dock, her team suits up to sort the oysters; damaged ones are discarded into the shallow water, attracting various fish species to feed. Mariano points out the local advantages created by the farm. “The oysters form a remarkable vertical habitat for young organisms; the farm is truly its own little ecosystem. Plus, we provide many job opportunities for the community across different age groups.”
The challenges
While navigating mortality events and intricate regulations can pose challenges, the most significant hurdle remains the weather. Hurricanes can devastate oyster farms; Smith at Calusa lost an entire year’s worth of work to Hurricane Helene. “It demands persistence, hard work, creativity, resilience, and adaptability. We learn to work around or through these challenges and keep pushing forward,” he explains.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association provides community support, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson highlighting their goals: “Shellfish farmers are among the hardest-working, most resilient, and innovative individuals I know. We’re dedicated to uplifting this emerging Southern industry and encourage everyone to be part of it. Taste a southern oyster, support local farmers, and experience the difference.”
Despite the numerous challenges they face, Ballard from Calusa voices his commitment: “I wouldn’t trade this job for anything.”
This article was originally featured in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (U.S. edition).
