Anyone familiar with oysters is likely aware that the northern shores of the United States are celebrated for their mouthwatering shellfish varieties. Enthusiasts rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast while championing Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast.
However, when it comes to Southeast oysters, many people turn up their noses and shake their heads. Oysters from warmer waters deemed inferior? That’s not what I want on my platter. I must admit: I used to share this skepticism.
But my perspective shifted dramatically when I encountered Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. Attending an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine introduced me to a dedicated group of entrepreneurs fervently working to revitalize the image of Southern oysters while benefiting their communities and the environment.
I received warm invitations to spend a few days on the farms, and with rubber boots packed and sunscreen applied, I set off for the scenic waters of the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day One: Gulf Adventures
It’s a stunning early morning as Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company greets me at South Tampa Bay. His colleague, Reid Ballard, navigates us towards their lease area, while Smith shares how he and his wife Maura unexpectedly ventured into oyster farming, thinking, “We could do that!”
“My family has always loved seafood, so it felt like a natural path,” Smith reflects, gesturing to the sparkling waters above a cloudless sky. “And honestly, the office scenery is unbeatable.”
Most oyster farming in the Southeast is considered “off-bottom,” taking place in estuaries where the tides consistently replenish nutrients. Ahead of us, floating cages hold mesh bags filled with oysters at varying stages of maturity.
Today’s main objective is harvesting. Bringing up a cage and extracting a flattened bag is a physically demanding task. The farm is a bustling ecosystem of life, featuring crabs, seaweed, and small fish, all clinging to the cage structures. As Smith notes, “Our farm has become a floating reef.”
The contents of the bags are sifted through a rotating cylinder, removing smaller oysters while sending the larger ones for harvest. The smaller ones are donated to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, to bolster wild oyster populations vital for the local ecosystem. Smith distinguishes: “Cultivation is about consumption, while restoration focuses on the environment.”
This sometimes tedious process of cleaning and sorting fosters discussions about the deeper meanings behind this lifestyle. Ballard shares his motivations: “Farming an animal that traps carbon, cleans water, and fosters biodiversity highlights how much still needs to be done for our environment.”
Smith encapsulates the joy of this work: “Finding a career that spreads positivity to others is a blessing. When have you ever seen someone not smiling while enjoying oysters?”
Day Two: Atlantic Discoveries
At a dock along the Indian River Lagoon, I am greeted by Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our skiff glides over the pristine waters, Nicolette shares her lifelong passion for aquaculture, which began when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at age 14. Her Bachelor of Science degree complements her love for her work. “There’s nothing quite like being out on the boat in the morning, soaking in the sounds and sights… the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air.”
Back at the dock, her crew dons slickers and begins the process of sorting and separating; damaged oysters are tossed into shallow waters, attracting diverse fish species. Mariano reflects on the local impact of the farm, stating, “Oysters create a fantastic three-dimensional habitat for young marine life; the farm truly becomes its own ecosystem. We’ve also generated numerous jobs for people across all ages within our community.”
Facing Challenges
Mortality incidents and complicated regulations can pose significant hurdles, but weather conditions are considered the greatest challenge. Hurricanes can devastate the farms; indeed, Smith at Calusa lost an entire year’s worth of work due to Hurricane Helene. “This industry requires persistence, innovation, resilience, and adaptability. We just have to navigate through the challenges and keep moving forward.”
Support for farmers is provided by the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, where Executive Director Adrianne Johnson shares their vision: “Shellfish farmers are some of the hardest-working, most resilient, and innovative individuals I know. Our goal is to empower this remarkable emerging industry in the South and invite everyone to join in. Support local farmers by trying southern oysters and savoring the difference.”
Despite the many difficulties, Ballard from Calusa reflects the sentiment of his fellow farmers: “I wouldn’t trade this job for anything.”
This article initially appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of The Windows Club magazine (U.S. edition).
