If you’re even slightly familiar with oysters, you’re aware that the northern U.S. coasts are celebrated for their mouthwatering shellfish selections. Enthusiasts of oysters rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East and cherish Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West.
However, when Southeastern oysters come into conversation, reactions often include upturned noses, tight-lipped expressions, and disapproving shakes of the head. The typical perception? Second-rate oysters from warmer waters — definitely not what I’d choose for my ice platter. Truthfully, I was once part of that skeptical crowd.
Everything changed when I had the unexpected thrill of tasting Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach in Florida. During an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I unearthed a dedicated group of entrepreneurs on a mission to elevate the reputation of Southern oysters, drive community prosperity, and enrich the local marine environment.
With warm invitations to spend a couple of days immersed in farm activities, I prepared myself with rubber boots and sunscreen and headed towards the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day One: In the Gulf
On a stunning early morning, I’m greeted by Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company as we venture into South Tampa Bay. Alongside him is his young associate, Reid Ballard, who navigates us to their oyster lease. Smith shares that he and his wife, Maura, serendipitously discovered the concept of oyster farming and thought, “Why not?”
“Our family has always enjoyed seafood, making this venture a natural choice,” explains Smith, sweeping his hand over the enchanting waters and clear skies. “And the view from the office? Unbeatable.”
The majority of oyster farming in the Southeast occurs “off-bottom” in estuaries where tidal movements consistently replenish nutrient supplies. We see floating cages ahead, each containing mesh bags filled with oysters at various stages of development.
Harvesting is today’s main focus. Hoisting a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves unexpectedly labor-intensive. The cages attract abundant marine life, with seaweed, crabs, and small fish adorning them. As Smith notes, “Our farm has become a floating reef.”
After the bags are emptied into a rotating sorting cylinder, smaller oysters are separated out while those ready for harvest are funneled out. Some of the smaller ones are earmarked for donation to Oyster River Ecology, a local initiative that supports wild oyster populations crucial to the ecosystem’s health. Smith articulates the distinction: “Cultivation is about consumption; restoration is about environmental benefits.”
The repetitive nature of scraping and sorting presents an opportunity to delve deeper into their personal motivations. Ballard passionately conveys, “Cultivating an organism that stores carbon, purifies water, and nurtures habitats has made me acutely aware of the ongoing efforts necessary to maintain environmental health.”
Smith encapsulates this sentiment: “Finding a profession that brings such joy to others is truly rewarding. When have you ever seen someone not smiling while savoring oysters?”
Day Two: In the Atlantic
My welcome at the dock in the Indian River Lagoon comes from Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our skiff glides across the pristine waters, she shares her love for aquaculture, ignited at age 14 when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. Her Bachelor of Science degree deepens her appreciation for her career. “There’s something magical about being on the boat at dawn: the sounds, the scents… hearing the ospreys, seeing dolphins, and occasionally meeting a manatee above water.”
At the dock, her team begins the process of sorting and organizing; damaged oysters are discarded into the shallow water, where fish of various species gather to feed. Mariano illustrates the positive local impact of the farm: “The oysters develop a remarkable vertical habitat for juvenile organisms, turning the farm into a unique ecosystem. We also generate numerous job opportunities for community members of all ages.”
Facing Challenges
Navigating mortality events and regulatory complexities can be quite challenging, but severe weather poses the greatest threat. Hurricanes can devastate oyster farms; for instance, Smith from Calusa lost an entire year’s yield due to Hurricane Helene. “It necessitates resilience, hard work, creativity, and flexibility. We just adapt and keep progressing,” he shares.
Support from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association plays a crucial role. Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizes their objectives: “Shellfish farmers embody diligence, resilience, and ingenuity. We aim to elevate this remarkable emerging industry in the South and encourage people to engage with it. Sample a Southern oyster, support local farmers, and appreciate the difference.”
Despite various obstacles, Ballard from Calusa summarizes the sentiment of his peers: “I wouldn’t exchange this profession for any amount of money.”
This piece was first published in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (U.S. edition).
