For anyone acquainted with seafood, it’s no secret that the northern U.S. coasts are famous for their exquisite oysters. Enthusiasts rave about East Coast varieties like Beausoleils and Wellfleets, while they celebrate the West Coast’s Kumamotos and Hama Hamas.
However, when the conversation turns to oysters hailing from the Southeast, many people react with skepticism, scrunching their faces and dismissing the idea of inferior product from warmer waters. I admit I was part of that skeptical crowd.
That was until I stumbled across Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, during an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine. There, I discovered a driven group of entrepreneurs advocating for the Southern oyster’s renaissance, dedicated to enriching their communities and improving the local ecosystem.
Invitations poured in to spend a couple of days on the farms. Armed with rubber boots and slathered in sunscreen, I set out for the Atlantic and Gulf waters with enthusiasm.
First Day: Exploring the Gulf
On a beautiful morning, I met Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company, who, along with his young partner Reid Ballard, motored us out to their leasehold. Smith recounted how he and his wife Maura serendipitously discovered oyster farming and thought, “Why not?”
“Our family enjoys seafood, so it felt like a natural pursuit,” Smith shared, gesturing to the serene waters and clear skies. “And honestly, the office view is unparalleled.”
The Southeast’s oyster farming primarily happens in estuaries using an “off-bottom” approach, where the tides continuously replenish nutrients. We glided past floating cages, each containing mesh bags filled with oysters at different growth stages.
Today’s focus was on harvesting. Lifting a cage and extracting a flattened bag proved to be quite a workout. Marine life clung around the cage systems, with an abundance of seaweed, crabs, and tiny fish. “Our farm now resembles a floating reef,” Smith noted.
The bags’ contents are funneled through a rotating, perforated cylinder to sort smaller oysters from those ready for harvesting. Some of the smaller oysters will be donated to local restoration projects like Oyster River Ecology, which help sustain the wild populations essential for environmental health. Smith explained the distinction: “Cultivation is for eating; restoration is about the ecosystem.”
This meticulous process gave us the chance to share personal stories. Ballard expressed his passion for the work: “Farming an organism that sequesters carbon, cleanses water, and encourages habitat development has really opened my eyes to how much still needs to be done for a cleaner environment.”
Smith summed it up perfectly: “Finding a job that brings joy to people’s lives is such a privilege. Have you ever seen someone not smile while eating oysters?”
Second Day: Venturing onto the Atlantic
On the dock at the Indian River Lagoon, I was greeted by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our skiff glided over the clear waters, Nicolette shared her long-standing fascination with aquaculture, ignited when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at age 14. With a Bachelor’s degree enriching her love for the field, she said, “There’s nothing like being on the boat at dawn, soaking in the sounds and sights… the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air.”
Back at the dock, her crew suited up to start sorting oysters. Damaged oysters were cast into the shallow waters, where various fish species gathered to feed. Mariano reflected on the local advantages of their farming practices. “The oysters form a unique three-dimensional habitat for juvenile marine life; the farm is truly an ecosystem in itself. We’ve also created numerous jobs for community members of all ages.”
Identifying the Hurdles
Dealing with mortality events and intricate regulations can be quite a challenge, but weather conditions represent the most daunting obstacle. Hurricanes can devastate farms; for instance, Smith at Calusa lost an entire year’s crop to Hurricane Helene. “It demands persistence, resilience, ingenuity, and adaptability. We always find a way forward,” he shared.
Support for the community comes from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, whose Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizes their mission: “Shellfish farmers are among the most dedicated and innovative individuals I know. We aim to elevate this wonderful emerging industry in the South and encourage everyone to join in. Savor a southern oyster, support your local farmers, and notice the difference.”
Despite the hurdles, Ballard from Calusa expresses his passion on behalf of other farmers: “I wouldn’t exchange this profession for any amount of money.”
This article first appeared in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (U.S. edition).
