Those familiar with oysters recognize the northern shores of the U.S. as hotspots for gourmet shellfish. Enthusiasts rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East while also celebrating Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West.
However, bring up oysters from the Southeast, and you’re likely to encounter skepticism—after all, who would choose warmer waters for their oysters? I confess, I was once among the critics.
That was until I stumbled upon Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach in Florida, which broadened my perspective on these coastal delicacies. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I met a dedicated group of entrepreneurs focused on rehabilitating the Southern oyster’s reputation, adding value to local communities, and enhancing the environment.
They graciously invited me to spend a few days at their farms. Armed with rubber boots and sunscreen, I set off toward the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day one: On the gulf
On a stunning early morning, Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company welcomes me to South Tampa Bay. His young colleague, Reid Ballard, skillfully navigates us to their lease as Smith recalls how he and his wife, Maura, fortuitously discovered oyster farming and thought, “Why not?”
“Seafood has always been a family favorite, so this felt like a natural choice,” Smith shares, gesturing toward the sparkling waters and clear skies. “And honestly, the office view is unbeatable.”
Most oyster farming in the Southeast employs an “off-bottom” method in nutrient-rich estuaries where tides constantly refresh the water supply. Floating cages bob in the water, each containing mesh bags filled with oysters at varying growth stages.
Today’s key task is harvesting. Retrieving a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be quite labor-intensive. Various marine life—including seaweed, crabs, and small fish—surrounds the cage structures. Smith sums it up perfectly: “Our farm resembles a floating reef.”
The bags’ contents are fed through a rotating sieve that separates the smaller oysters from those ready for market. A portion of the smaller oysters will be donated to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, aimed at bolstering wild populations critical to the ecosystem. Smith differentiates: “Cultivation is to eat, while restoration is for the environment.”
The somewhat repetitive task of sifting through oysters allows for personal reflections. Ballard shares his motivation: “Farming a species that captures carbon, cleans water, and fosters habitat development has heightened my awareness of the ongoing efforts needed to maintain our environment.”
In closing, Smith adds: “It’s rewarding to be involved in a business that brings so much joy to people. Have you ever seen someone frowning while enjoying oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
I arrive at a dock on the Indian River Lagoon, where I meet Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our small boat cuts through the clear waters, she shares that her interest in aquaculture began at 14 when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. Armed with a Bachelor of Science degree, she finds joy in her work. “I adore the peaceful mornings on the water, soaking up the sounds and scents… the ospreys, the dolphins, and the manatees surfacing for air.”
At the dock, her team gears up to separate and sort through the oysters; any damaged ones are cast back into the shallow waters, where diverse fish species gather to feast. Mariano reflects on the local benefits stemming from the farm. “The oysters form a remarkable three-dimensional habitat for juvenile marine life; the farm genuinely serves as its own ecosystem. We’ve also been able to generate several jobs in our community for individuals of all ages.”
The challenges
While mortality events and complex regulations pose their challenges, the most significant hurdle is weather. Hurricanes can devastate farms; in fact, Smith from Calusa lost an entire year’s worth of work to Hurricane Helene. “It requires persistence, hard work, creativity, resilience, and an adaptable mindset. We just have to find new ways to navigate the hurdles,” he shares.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, led by Executive Director Adrianne Johnson, provides crucial support: “Shellfish farmers are among the most dedicated, resilient, and innovative individuals I know. We strive to support this remarkable industry in the South and encourage everyone to join us. Try a southern oyster, support a local farmer, taste the difference.”
Despite the multitude of challenges, Ballard from Calusa conveys the sentiments of his peers: “I wouldn’t trade this profession for anything.”
This article initially appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (U.S. edition).
