If you’ve ever had even a fleeting exposure to oysters, you’re likely aware that the northern U.S. coastlines are highly regarded for their exquisite shellfish selections. Enthusiasts rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the Eastern shores, while Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West garner equal admiration.
However, the mention of Southeastern oysters often elicits skepticism, with faces scrunching up at the thought of subpar mollusks from warmer waters. I’ll admit, I was part of that crowd.
Everything changed during an unexpected meeting with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered a dedicated group of entrepreneurs committed to reviving the Southern oyster’s reputation, adding economic value to their communities, and improving the local ecosystem.
I received warm invitations to spend a couple of days working on the farms. With rubber boots packed and sunscreen applied, I was excited to dive into the waters of the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day one: On the Gulf
On a stunning early morning, Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company greets me at South Tampa Bay. His colleague Reid Ballard steers us out to their lease area, while Smith shares that he and his wife Maura essentially stumbled into the oyster farming business, stating, “Hey, we could do that!”
“My family has always loved seafood, so it felt like a natural choice,” Smith adds, gesturing at the sparkling waters and clear skies. “Plus, the office view is unbeatable.”
The majority of oyster farming in the Southeast occurs “off-bottom” within estuaries where the tides continually refresh the nutrient levels. Ahead of us, floating cages are visible, each housing mesh bags containing oysters at different growth stages.
Today’s focus is on harvesting. Pulling up a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be quite vigorous. Various marine life clings to the cage structures, while seaweed, crabs, and small fish abound. As Smith comments, “Our farm has evolved into a floating reef.”
The content of the bags is processed through a rotating perforated cylinder, sorting smaller oysters and directing the harvest-ready ones. Some of these younger oysters will be given to a local restoration initiative called Oyster River Ecology, which is fundamental to the health of the local marine ecosystem. Smith clarifies: “cultivation” serves to nourish, while “restoration” serves the environment’s needs.
This somewhat meticulous process of cleaning and sorting offers moments to delve into the personal stories behind this lifestyle. Ballard expresses his enthusiasm: “Cultivating an organism that sequesters carbon, cleanses water, and offers habitat for other species has shown me the ongoing work needed to keep our environment healthy.”
Smith encapsulates it perfectly: “Finding work that spreads joy in people’s lives is truly rewarding. Do you ever see people frowning while enjoying oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
I’m welcomed at a dock in the Indian River Lagoon by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our small boat glides over the pristine waters, Nicolette shares how her fascination with aquaculture began as a 14-year-old volunteering at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. Her Bachelor’s degree solidifies her enjoyment of her work. “I cherish being out on the boat early in the morning, absorbing all the sounds and fragrances… like ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air.”
Back at the dock, her team gears up and begins to sort and separate the oysters, discarding damaged ones into the shallow waters, where various fish species gather to feed. Mariano reflects on the positive local impacts of the farm. “The oysters create a remarkable vertical habitat for young organisms; the farm essentially operates as its own ecosystem. Additionally, we’ve created several jobs in our community for individuals of all ages.”
The challenges
Weather conditions, particularly hurricanes, pose significant challenges. Smith from Calusa recalls a year when storm Helene devastated an entire year’s worth of labor. He remarks, “It necessitates determination, effort, creativity, resilience, and flexibility. We do whatever it takes to adapt and keep moving forward.”
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association offers community support, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson sharing their aim: “Shellfish farmers are among the most dedicated, innovative, and resilient individuals I know. We strive to advance this exciting emerging industry in the South and encourage people to join us. Try a southern oyster, support a local farmer, taste the difference.”
Despite facing numerous hurdles, Calusa’s Ballard expresses the sentiment of his fellow cultivators: “I wouldn’t trade this career for anything.”
This piece first appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (U.S. edition).
