For those familiar with oysters, the northern shores of the United States are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish varieties. Enthusiasts of these delicacies rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, while praising the Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast.
However, when it comes to oysters from the Southeastern region, many react with skepticism, dismissing them as inferior due to their warmer waters. “Second-rate oysters? Not on my chilled platter,” they might say. I must admit, I once shared this viewpoint.
Yet, my perspective changed dramatically while trying Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. During an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered a dedicated group of entrepreneurs striving to revitalize the Southern oyster’s reputation, enrich their communities, and improve the local ecosystem.
After receiving warm invitations to spend a couple of days working on the farms, I packed my rubber boots and sunscreen and eagerly set off for the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day one: On the Gulf
As the sun rises on a stunning morning, Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His young associate, Reid Ballard, ferries us to their lease area, as Smith recounts how he and his wife Maura stumbled into oyster farming, thinking, “Why not?”
“My family has a deep love for seafood, making this a natural path for me,” Smith explains, showcasing the picturesque waters and clear skies. “Honestly, there’s no office quite like this one.”
Much of the Southeast’s oyster farming occurs “off-bottom” in estuaries where the tides consistently replenish nutrients. Ahead, floating cages hold mesh bags brimming with oysters at various growth stages.
Our main task today is harvesting. Pulling up a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be quite labor-intensive. Surrounding sea life thrives around the cage structures, with crabs, seaweed, and small fish present everywhere. “Our farm has become a floating reef,” Smith observes.
The contents of the bags are sorted through a rotating perforated cylinder, facilitating the separation of smaller oysters that are set aside for a local oyster restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, aimed at bolstering the wild populations essential for preserving the health of these waters. Smith distinguishes between the two: “We cultivate for consumption and restore for environmental benefit.”
As we work through the somewhat monotonous task of cleaning and sorting, conversation shifts to personal reflections. Ballard shares his passion: “Cultivating an organism that absorbs CO2, cleans water, and fosters habitat growth has made me realize just how much work lies ahead in maintaining a clean environment.”
Smith sums it up perfectly: “It’s incredibly rewarding to engage in a business that positively impacts people’s lives. Seriously, have you ever noticed people frowning while enjoying oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
My journey continues at a dock on the Indian River Lagoon, where Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish greets me. As our skiff glides across the crystalline waters, Nicolette shares her long-standing fascination with aquaculture, stemming from her days as a volunteer at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center when she was just 14. Her Bachelor’s degree complements her passion for this field. “Nothing beats being out on the water in the early morning, soaking in the sounds and scents—the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees coming up for air,” she recounts.
Back at the dock, her team dons their gear and begins the process of measuring and sorting; injured oysters are tossed into shallow waters where various fish species gather to feed. Mariano reflects on the community advantages arising from their operations. “The oysters create a fantastic three-dimensional vertical habitat for juvenile organisms; the farm is genuinely its own ecosystem. Moreover, we’ve generated job opportunities for locals across all ages.”
The challenges
The oyster farming sector faces numerous challenges, particularly mortality events and regulatory complexities; however, weather remains the principal hurdle. Hurricanes can devastate farms, as Smith from Calusa experienced when Hurricane Helene obliterated an entire year’s work. “It requires determination, diligence, creativity, resilience, and flexibility. We simply adapt and persevere.”
Community support flourishes through the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, where Executive Director Adrianne Johnson articulates their goal: “Shellfish farmers are among the most dedicated, resilient, and innovative individuals I know. We aspire to uplift this burgeoning Southern industry and invite everyone to participate. Try a Southern oyster, support a local farmer, and experience the difference.”
Despite facing these challenges, Ballard of Calusa expresses the sentiments of his fellow farmers: “I wouldn’t trade this job for anything.”
This article was initially featured in the November/December 2025 issue of The Windows Club magazine (U.S. edition).
