For those familiar with oysters, the northern shores of the United States are often celebrated for their exquisite shellfish varieties. Enthusiasts rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast while hailing Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast.
However, as soon as the oysters from the Southeastern region are brought up, many react with disdain—who would want second-rate oysters from warmer waters? I must admit, I once shared this skepticism.
That changed after a delightful discovery of Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. At the Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered a dedicated group of entrepreneurs striving to revitalize the Southern oyster’s reputation, create community value, and improve environmental conditions.
Following their generous invitations, I packed my rubber boots and sunscreen, setting off to explore the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
First Day: Gulf Excursion
The day begins with a clear sky as Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company greets me at South Tampa Bay. With his enthusiastic colleague, Reid Ballard, we glide toward their leasehold, where Smith shares how he and his wife Maura stumbled into the world of oyster farming with a casual “Hey, we could do this!”
“My family has always enjoyed seafood, so it felt right,” Smith remarks, pointing to the sparkling waters. “Plus, the view from the ‘office’ is unbeatable.”
In the Southeast, most oyster farming occurs “off-bottom” in estuaries replenished by tidal cycles. Floating above us are cages containing mesh bags filled with oysters at different growth stages.
The task for the day is harvesting. Lifting a cage and extracting a flattened bag turns out to be quite the workout, with a bustling ecosystem enveloping the cages—seaweed, crabs, and tiny fish abound. As Smith notes, “Our farm has transformed into a floating reef.”
Oysters are sorted in a rotating cylinder, separating smaller ones for a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, aimed at bolstering wild populations essential for aquatic health. Smith clarifies the distinction: “cultivation” focuses on consumption, while “restoration” prioritizes environmental support.
The labor-intensive process of scraping and sorting offers the chance for deeper discussions about their lifestyle. Ballard shares his motivation: “Cultivating an animal that captures carbon, purifies water, and fosters habitat growth opened my eyes to the significant work needed to maintain a clean environment.”
Smith encapsulates it perfectly: “Finding a business that spreads joy is truly rewarding. Have you ever seen a picture of someone not smiling while eating oysters?”
Second Day: Atlantic Adventures
As I arrive at the dock on the Indian River Lagoon, I am warmly greeted by Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish. As we navigate the pristine waters, Mariano shares that her fascination with aquaculture began at 14 when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. With a Bachelor of Science degree backing her passion, she adds, “I cherish those early mornings on the boat, immersed in nature—the sounds and the scents… the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing.”
Back at the dock, her team puts on their slickers and begins sorting; damaged oysters are returned to the shallow waters, attracting various fish feeding on them. Mariano emphasizes the local advantages of her operations: “The oysters provide a unique three-dimensional habitat for juvenile species; our farm essentially acts as its own ecosystem. Plus, we’ve generated various jobs within the community, catering to a diverse age group.”
Facing Challenges
While managing mortality events and complex regulations can be challenging, the main obstacle remains the weather. Hurricanes can devastate farms; for instance, Smith at Calusa lost an entire year’s yield due to Hurricane Helene. “It requires persistence, hard work, creativity, resilience, and flexibility. We simply adjust and forge ahead,” he says.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association offers community support, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizing their goal: “Shellfish farmers are among the most hardworking, resilient, and innovative individuals I know. We aim to uplift this vibrant, growing industry in the South and encourage others to get involved. Try a southern oyster, support a local farmer, and taste the difference.”
Despite the hurdles, Ballard from Calusa echoes the sentiment of his peers: “I wouldn’t trade this job for anything in the world.”
This article originally appeared in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
