For those familiar with oysters, it’s clear that the northern shores of the United States are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish. Enthusiasts rave about the Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, while Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast earn their fair share of adoration.
However, when discussing oysters from the Southeast, many might wrinkle their noses and shake their heads. Average oysters from warmer waters? Count me out! I must admit, I was once among those skeptics.
Then, a fortunate encounter with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, changed my perspective entirely. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I met a dedicated group of entrepreneurs on a mission to restore the Southern oyster’s reputation, create local opportunities, and promote environmental sustainability.
I was graciously invited to spend a few days working on these oyster farms. With rubber boots packed and sunblock generously applied, I headed to the Atlantic and Gulf waters with excitement.
Day one: Exploring the Gulf
The morning is stunning as Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me at South Tampa Bay. His young associate, Reid Ballard, takes us out to their leasehold, while Smith shares that he and his wife Maura serendipitously discovered oyster farming and thought, “Why not?”
“My family enjoys seafood, so it made sense to explore this path,” Smith says, gesturing to the beautiful waters and clear skies. “Besides, the view beats any office.”
In the Southeast, most oyster farming occurs “off-bottom” in estuaries, where continuous tides replenish nutrients in the water. Floating cages filled with mesh bags of oysters at various growth stages bob ahead of us.
Today, our main task is harvesting. Hoisting a cage and extracting a flattened bag becomes quite the workout. The cage is alive with sea life, coated in seaweed, crabs, and tiny fish. As Smith observes, “Our farm has turned into a floating reef.”
The contents of the bags are processed through a rotating perforated cylinder, separating out the smaller oysters and directing those ready for harvest. Some of these smaller oysters will be contributed to Oyster River Ecology’s local restoration efforts, vital for nurturing wild populations that support the health of these waters. Smith clarifies: “cultivation” is intended for consumption, while “restoration” focuses on ecological benefits.
This process of scraping and sorting allows time to delve into their personal motivations. Ballard shares his driving passion: “Cultivating an animal that captures carbon, cleans water, and enhances habitats has made me aware of how much work is still necessary to maintain our environment.”
Smith concludes, “Finding a business that brings so much joy to people’s lives is a true blessing. Have you ever noticed anyone not smiling while eating oysters?”
Day two: Aboard the Atlantic
I arrive at a dock on the Indian River Lagoon, greeted by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As we glide out over the clear water, Nicolette shares her long-standing fascination with aquaculture, sparked as a volunteer at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at age 14. Her Bachelor of Science degree further enriches her enjoyment of her work: “I relish being out on the boat early in the morning, surrounded by the sounds and smells… the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air.”
At the dock, her crew prepares to separate and sort oysters; damaged ones are tossed into shallow waters, attracting swarms of various fish. Mariano observes the local advantages stemming from the farm: “The oysters provide an incredible vertical habitat for juvenile organisms; the farm itself functions as a small, vibrant ecosystem. Additionally, we’ve created various jobs for people of all ages in our community.”
Facing the Challenges
Although mortality events and stringent regulations present hurdles, it is the weather that poses the greatest difficulties. Hurricanes can devastate farms; for instance, Smith at Calusa lost an entire year’s harvest due to Hurricane Helene. “It takes unwavering determination, hard work, ingenuity, resilience, and adaptability. We simply find a workaround and persist,” he explains.
Support comes from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, and its Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizes their mission: “Shellfish farmers are among the most hardworking, resilient, and innovative individuals I know. We aim to elevate this remarkable emerging industry in the south and encourage people to engage with it. Sample a Southern oyster, back a local farmer, and taste the difference.”
Despite the numerous challenges, Ballard from Calusa speaks for many farmers: “I wouldn’t trade this experience for anything else.”
This piece originally appeared in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
