If you have any familiarity with oysters, you likely recognize that the northern U.S. coastlines are famous for their exquisite shellfish. Enthusiasts of oysters rave about the likes of Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, while praising Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the Pacific coast.
However, the mention of Southeastern oysters often results in skeptical reactions—noses scrunching, lips pursed, and heads shaking. Warm water oysters deemed inferior? Count me out! I must admit, I was initially aligned with this view.
But a chance introduction to Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, transformed my perception. During an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I met an enthusiastic group of dedicated entrepreneurs committed to reviving the reputation of Southern oysters, adding value to their communities, and improving the local ecosystem.
Invited graciously to spend a few days working at their farms, I donned rubber boots and smeared on sunblock, ready to explore the waters of both the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day One: On the Gulf
On a gorgeous early morning, Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company welcomes me to South Tampa Bay. His young associate, Reid Ballard, motors us out to their leasehold as Smith shares that he and his wife, Maura, stumbled into oyster farming and thought, “Hey, we could do this!”
“My family loves seafood, so it made sense to pursue this path,” Smith explains, gesturing toward the sparkling waters and clear skies. “Moreover, the office environment is unbeatable.”
Most Southeast oyster farming occurs “off-bottom” in estuarine regions where tidal movements frequently replenish the water’s nutrients. Ahead of us, floating cages contain mesh bags full of oysters at different stages of development.
Our main task today is harvesting. Hoisting a cage and extracting a flat bag proves to be quite the labor-intensive job. Sea creatures cling to the cage’s structures, with seaweed, crabs, and small fish all around us. Smith observes, “Our farm has become a floating reef.”
The contents of the bags are tumbled through a rotating perforated cylinder to separate the smaller oysters from those ready to be harvested. Some of these smaller oysters will be contributed to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, aimed at supporting the wild populations essential to the health of our waters. Smith describes the difference: “cultivation” is meant for eating, while “restoration” focuses on ecological benefits.
As we scrape and sort, there are opportunities to delve into the personal stories behind this work. Ballard shares his motivations: “Cultivating an organism that sequesters carbon, cleanses water, and fosters habitat growth has made me realize how much work lies ahead for maintaining a clean environment.”
Summarizing the experience, Smith states, “Finding a business that creates positive impacts on people’s lives is truly rewarding. Do you ever see anyone not smiling while eating oysters?”
Day Two: On the Atlantic
A dock along the Indian River Lagoon is where I am greeted by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As we glide across the clear waters in our skiff, Mariano shares her long-standing fascination with aquaculture, which began when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at age 14. Her Bachelor of Science degree complements her passion for her career. “Being out on the boat in the early morning, enjoying the sights and sounds… ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air, is truly fulfilling,” she notes.
Back at the dock, her team dons gear and begins sorting and separating; any damaged oysters go back into the shallow waters where numerous fish species gather to feed. Mariano discusses the local advantages provided by the farm: “The oysters generate a wonderful vertical habitat for juvenile organisms; the farm itself acts as an independent ecosystem. Furthermore, we have created multiple job opportunities within our community for individuals of all ages.”
Facing Challenges
Facing mortality events and navigating complex regulations can prove challenging, but the weather often presents the greatest difficulties. Hurricanes can devastate farms; for instance, Smith at Calusa lost an entire year of work to Hurricane Helene. “It requires perseverance, hard work, ingenuity, resilience, and flexibility. We just find a way to adjust and keep pushing forward,” he shares.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association provides community support, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizing their mission: “Shellfish farmers are some of the hardest-working, most resilient, and innovative individuals I know. We aim to elevate this remarkable emerging industry in the South and encourage others to join us. Try a southern oyster, support a local farmer, and truly savor the difference.”
Despite the numerous hurdles, Ballard from Calusa expresses the sentiments shared by his fellow farmers: “I wouldn’t exchange this job for any amount of money.”
This article was initially featured in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (U.S. edition).
