For those acquainted with oysters, it’s well-known that the northern regions of the United States boast some of the finest shellfish. Enthusiasts rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, while Kumamotos and Hama Hamas take the spotlight on the West Coast.
However, mention oysters from the Southeast, and you might witness skepticism—averted gazes, pursed lips, and shaking heads. Warm water oysters rated as inferior? That’s not what I want on my ice platter. I must admit, I was once among the skeptics.
Everything changed with my unexpected introduction to Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. During an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered dedicated entrepreneurs striving to enhance the standing of Southern oysters, create community value, and positively impact the local ecosystem.
Generous invitations came my way to spend a few days on the farms, and so armed with rubber boots and sunscreen, I made my way toward the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day one: On the gulf
Early on a beautiful morning, Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His young assistant, Reid Ballard, pilots us to their leasehold while Smith recounts how he and his wife Maura serendipitously ventured into oyster farming, thinking, “Really, we could do this!”
“Being seafood lovers, it was a natural path for us,” Smith shares while gesturing toward the sparkling waters and clear skies. “And honestly, the workplace doesn’t get better than this.”
Most oyster farming in the Southeast is conducted in estuaries with “off-bottom” techniques, allowing tides to perpetually replenish nutrients in the waters. Ahead of us are floating cages, each containing mesh bags filled with oysters at different growth phases.
Today’s main task is harvesting. Raising a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be quite the workout. Sea life abounds around the cage, with seaweed, crabs, and small fish everywhere. “Our farm has become its own floating reef,” emphasizes Smith.
After tumbling the bag contents through a rotating perforated cylinder, smaller oysters are sorted out and directed to harvest, with some set aside for donation to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, aiding vital wild populations in these waters. Smith delineates: “Cultivation” is geared for consumption, while “restoration” focuses on ecological health.
The somewhat laborious process of cleaning and sorting offers time for reflection on the personal side of this endeavor. Ballard shares his motivation: “Cultivating an animal that sequesters carbon, cleans water, and encourages habitat growth has made me more aware of the ongoing efforts needed to maintain a clean environment.”
Smith concludes, “Finding a career that contributes joy to people’s lives is truly a pleasure. Do you ever see anyone looking glum while enjoying oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
At a dock along the Indian River Lagoon, Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish welcomes me. As we glide over the clear waters on her skiff, she shares her long-standing fascination with aquaculture, stemming from her volunteer days at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at just 14. With a Bachelor of Science under her belt, Mariano enjoys her chosen profession immensely. “I relish being out on the boat in the mornings, soaking in all the sounds and scents—the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air.”
Back at the dock, her crew gathers their gear, diligently separating and sorting oysters; damaged ones are discarded into shallow waters where fish eagerly feed. Mariano reflects on the farm’s numerous local benefits, stating, “The oysters provide a fantastic three-dimensional habitat for young organisms; the farm functions as an independent ecosystem. Plus, we’ve created various jobs for people in our area.”
The challenges
Facing numerous obstacles, including mortality events and complicated regulations, the greatest challenge remains the weather. Hurricanes can devastate farms; for instance, Smith at Calusa lost a year’s yield to Storm Helene. “It requires persistence, effort, creativity, determination, and flexibility. We continually adapt and push forward.”
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association provides essential community support, spearheaded by Executive Director Adrianne Johnson, who expresses their goal: “Shellfish farmers are some of the hardest-working, most resilient, and innovative people I’ve encountered. We aim to elevate this remarkable burgeoning industry in the South and invite everyone to be part of it. Experience a southern oyster, support local farmers, and savor the unique taste.”
Despite the various challenges, Ballard from Calusa represents the determination of oyster farmers: “I wouldn’t trade this life for anything else.”
This article was initially published in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
