If you’re even slightly familiar with oysters, you’ll know that the northern shores of the United States are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish varieties. Enthusiasts eagerly anticipate the arrival of Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, while Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast also garner acclaim.
Conversely, conversations around oysters from the Southeastern region often lead to skepticism, disapproving expressions, and objections. Subpar shellfish from warmer waters? Count me out! I must admit, I was once guilty of this viewpoint.
However, a chance encounter with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, changed my perspective entirely. During an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I came across driven entrepreneurs dedicated to revitalizing the status of Southern oysters, enhancing community value, and improving the local ecosystem.
I was warmly invited to spend a couple of days on the oyster farms, and with rubber boots packed and sunscreen applied, I eagerly set off for the waters of the Atlantic and Gulf.
Day One: Gulf Waters
On a beautiful morning, I’m greeted by Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company as we set off in a skiff across South Tampa Bay. His partner, Reid Ballard, helps navigate to their leasehold while Smith shares how he and his wife Maura essentially stumbled upon oyster farming, deciding, “Hey, we can do this!”
“My family has always loved seafood, so diving into this venture felt natural,” Smith explains, gesturing at the shimmering waters and clear skies. “And the view from the office is unparalleled.”
Oyster aquaculture in the Southeast primarily takes place “off-bottom” in estuaries, with tides replenishing the water’s nutrients. As we move forward, we see floating cages housing mesh bags of oysters at various growth stages.
Harvesting is the main activity for the day. The effort of lifting a cage and removing a flattened bag proves to be quite a workout. The cages are adorned with marine life, such as seaweed, crabs, and small fish. Smith describes their farm as “a floating reef.”
Once the bags are emptied, the oysters are sorted through a rotating perforated cylinder that separates the smaller oysters and channels those ready for harvesting. Some of the younger oysters will be donated to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, to support the wild populations essential for maintaining healthy waters. Smith delineates: “Cultivation is for eating; restoration is for the ecosystem.”
This meticulous process of scraping and sorting opens up reflections on life in this field. Ballard expresses his motivation: “Farming an organism that sequesters carbon, purifies water, and fosters habitat has made me acutely aware of the effort needed to maintain a clean environment.”
Smith encapsulates the sentiment: “Finding a profession that brings such joy to people’s lives is a rare pleasure. Do you ever see anyone unhappy while eating oysters?”
Day Two: Atlantic Adventures
At a dock on the Indian River Lagoon, I am welcomed by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As we glide across the crystalline waters, Mariano reveals that her passion for aquaculture began when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at just 14 years old. With her Bachelor of Science degree, she’s able to further deepen her enjoyment of her work. “I treasure the early mornings out on the boat, absorbing all the sights and sounds: the calls of ospreys, the dolphins surfacing, and the manatees taking a breath.”
Once back at the dock, her team gears up and begins sorting and separating; any damaged oysters are thrown into the shallow waters where fish gather. Mariano highlights the community advantages stemming from the farm: “The oysters provide an incredible three-dimensional habitat for juvenile organisms; it’s truly its own ecosystem. We’ve also created numerous jobs for people of various ages in our community.”
Facing the Challenges
Environmental challenges and complex regulations complicate matters, but the most significant hurdle is the weather. Hurricanes can devastate farms; for instance, Smith at Calusa witnessed a year’s worth of work obliterated by Hurricane Helene. “It demands tenacity, hard work, creativity, resilience, and the capacity to adapt. We simply find ways to circumvent or tackle obstacles and continue forward.”
Support comes from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson sharing their purpose: “Shellfish farmers are incredibly hard-working, resilient, and innovative individuals. We aim to promote this extraordinary emerging industry in the South and invite everyone to get involved. Savor a southern oyster, support local farmers, and taste the unique flavor.”
Despite various obstacles, Ballard from Calusa resonates with his fellow farmers: “I wouldn’t exchange this role for any amount of money.”
This piece originally appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
