If you’re familiar with oysters, you likely know that the northern U.S. coast is famous for its exquisite shellfish. Enthusiasts cherish Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast while praising Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast.
However, when the conversation turns to oysters from the Southeast, many respond with disdain—warm waters yield second-rate oysters, they say. Once upon a time, I was among those who scoffed at the idea.
Then, a chance meeting with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, changed my perspective entirely. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered a devoted group of entrepreneurs passionate about rehabilitating the Southern oyster’s image, creating community value, and improving the marine environment.
They kindly invited me to spend a few days working on the oyster farms, and with rubber boots and sunscreen packed, I eagerly set off for the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day One: On the Gulf
On a stunning early morning, I am welcomed by Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company in South Tampa Bay. His young associate, Reid Ballard, pilots us out to their lease as Smith recounts how he and his wife Maura accidentally discovered oyster farming and thought, “We can do that!”
“My family adores seafood, so it was a natural progression,” Smith shares, gesturing towards the sparkling waters and clear skies. “Plus, the office view is hard to beat.”
In the Southeast, most oyster farming occurs “off-bottom” in estuaries, where tides continuously refresh water nutrients. We navigate past floating cages filled with mesh bags that contain oysters at different growth stages.
Today’s main focus is on harvesting. Retrieving a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be quite the workout. Various sea creatures cling to the cage’s structure, with seaweed, crabs, and tiny fish all around. Smith remarks, “Our farm has transformed into a floating reef.”
The bags’ contents are passed through a rotating cylinder, sorting smaller oysters and directing those ready for harvest. Some smaller oysters will be donated to the Oyster River Ecology, an initiative intended to bolster wild populations crucial for the health of these waters. Smith points out the distinction: “cultivation” is for consumption while “restoration” aims to support the ecosystem.
This somewhat laborious process of cleaning and sorting allows for personal reflections about their work. Ballard expresses his drive: “Growing an organism that captures carbon, cleanses water, and fosters habitat growth has opened my eyes to the ongoing efforts needed to maintain our environment.”
Summarizing the experience, Smith adds, “Finding a business that brings such joy to people’s lives is a privilege. Do you ever see photos of individuals not smiling while enjoying oysters?”
Day Two: On the Atlantic
At a dock in the Indian River Lagoon, I am greeted by Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our small boat glides over the crystal-clear waters, Nicolette shares her long-standing fascination with aquaculture, ignited when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center as a teenager. Her Bachelor of Science degree complements her enjoyment in practicing her chosen profession. “There’s nothing like being on the boat in the early morning, reveling in the sounds and scents—the ospreys, dolphins, and the manatees surfacing for air,” she says.
Back at the dock, her team suits up and begins to separate and sort; damaged oysters are tossed back into shallow water, creating a feeding frenzy for various fish species. Mariano reflects on the local impact of their farming efforts. “The oysters create an impressive vertical habitat for juvenile organisms; our farm is genuinely an ecosystem. We’ve also generated numerous jobs for local individuals of all ages.”
The Challenges
Challenges like mortality events and complex regulations can be tough to manage, but the biggest hurdle remains the weather. Hurricanes can devastate farms; for instance, Smith at Calusa lost an entire year’s work to Hurricane Helene. “It requires determination, hard work, creativity, resilience, and adaptability. We just find ways to move forward,” Smith reveals.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association offers community support; Executive Director Adrianne Johnson stresses their goal: “Shellfish farmers are among the most hardworking, innovative people I’ve encountered. We aim to uplift this remarkable nascent industry in the south and invite others to join us. Try a southern oyster, support local farmers, and taste the difference.”
Despite the numerous challenges, Ballard from Calusa states on behalf of his fellow farmers: “I wouldn’t trade this job for anything.”
This article originally appeared in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
