For anyone familiar with oysters, it’s well-known that the northern US coastlines are celebrated for their exceptional shellfish selections. Enthusiasts rave about the Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast and extol the virtues of Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast.
However, when it comes to discussing oysters from the Southeast, there’s often a dismissive wave, a wrinkled nose, and an emphatic “no thanks” to warm-water oysters. I admit, I used to be one of those skeptics.
My views shifted dramatically during an unexpected tasting of Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered a dedicated group of entrepreneurs committed to elevating the Southern oyster’s status, generating value for their localities, and positively impacting the ecosystem.
They graciously invited me to spend a few days working on the farms. Armed with rubber boots and plenty of sunblock, I made my way to the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Exploring Day One: Gulf Waters
The sun rises beautifully as Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company welcomes me to South Tampa Bay. His companion, Reid Ballard, takes us out to their leasehold, as Smith shares how he and his wife Maura unexpectedly found their way into oyster farming, thinking, “Why not?”
“Seafood has always been a family favorite, making this a natural pursuit,” he notes, while gesturing to the shimmering waters and clear skies around us. “Additionally, the workspace is unbeatable.”
Most oyster farming in the Southeast takes place off-bottom in estuarine environments, where tides replenish nutrients. Floating cages bob ahead, each holding mesh bags with oysters at various growth stages.
The key task for today is harvesting. Pulling a cage out of the water and extracting a flattened bag proves to be quite a workout. The cages are communities of marine life, teeming with seaweed, crabs, and small fish. As Smith observes, “Our farm has become like a floating reef.”
After the bags are tumbled through a rotating perforated drum, the smaller oysters are sorted and funneled out for harvesting. Some will be donated to Oyster River Ecology for local restoration efforts aimed at supporting wild populations crucial for the health of these waters. Smith elaborates on the distinction: “Cultivation is geared towards consumption, while restoration benefits the ecosystem.”
As we scrape and sort, we delve into the personal stories behind this livelihood. Ballard expresses his driving passion: “Cultivating a species that sequesters carbon, purifies water, and fosters habitat growth has highlighted the ongoing work needed to maintain environmental health.”
Smith captures the joy of the work succinctly: “It’s a joy to have found a vocation that brings happiness to so many. Have you ever seen pictures of people not smiling when they’re enjoying oysters?”
Day Two: Atlantic Adventures
I am greeted by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish at a dock along the Indian River Lagoon. As we glide over the pristine waters, Nicolette shares her long-standing passion for aquaculture, sparked by her youthful days as a volunteer at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. Her Bachelor of Science degree complements her love for her chosen field. “There’s nothing like being out on the water at dawn, taking in the sounds and scents… the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air,” she says.
Back at the dock, her crew suits up and begins sorting. Any damaged oysters are thrown into shallow waters where they attract various fish species. Mariano highlights the ecological impact of the farm: “Oysters create a remarkable three-dimensional habitat for juvenile organisms; truly, our farm is its own ecosystem. We’ve also generated multiple job opportunities within our community for individuals of diverse ages.”
Overcoming Challenges
While complex regulations and mortality events present unique hurdles, weather conditions remain the primary obstacle. Hurricanes can devastate farms; Smith from Calusa shared that an entire year’s harvest was lost to Hurricane Helene. “It demands persistence, hard work, cleverness, resilience, and adaptability. We just endure, navigating whatever challenges arise without losing our momentum,” he explains.
Support from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, led by Executive Director Adrianne Johnson, emphasizes their mission: “Shellfish farmers are some of the most hardworking, resilient, and innovative people I know. We aim to elevate this incredible emerging industry in the South and encourage more people to engage. Taste a southern oyster, support local farmers, and experience the difference.”
Despite the challenges, Ballard from Calusa articulates what many farmers feel: “I wouldn’t trade this job for a million dollars.”
This article originally appeared in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
