For those familiar with shellfish, the northern U.S. coastlines are often celebrated for their succulent oysters. Enthusiasts eagerly await Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the Eastern shores while praising Kumamotos and Hama Hamas hailing from the West Coast.
However, the mention of Southeastern oysters usually elicits skepticism, with some dismissing them as inferior due to their warmer waters. I regret to admit that I was among the skeptics.
That changed dramatically when I had the chance to try Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I was introduced to a dedicated group of entrepreneurs who are committed to reviving the Southern oyster’s reputation, creating value for their communities, and improving the local ecosystem.
Thanks to their warm hospitality, I spent a couple of days immersed in the farm life. Armed with rubber boots and sunscreen, I set off to explore the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day One: On the Gulf
On a stunning early morning, Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His young colleague, Reid Ballard, guides our boat to their lease. Smith shares that he and his wife Maura accidentally discovered the idea of oyster farming and thought, “Why not give it a try?”
“Our family enjoys seafood, so it made sense to pursue this venture,” says Smith, indicating the sparkling waters and clear blue skies. “And the office view is hard to top.”
Most oyster farming in the Southeast occurs “off-bottom,” in estuaries where tidal movements continuously renew the water’s nutrients. Ahead of us, floating cages bob gently, each filled with mesh bags containing oysters at different growth stages.
Today’s main job is harvesting. Hauling up a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be quite the workout. Marine life clings to the cage, with seaweed, crabs, and small fish in abundance. “Our farm has become a floating reef,” Smith proudly states.
The contents of the bags are processed through a rotating, perforated cylinder that separates smaller oysters, sending those ready for harvest down a chute. Some smaller oysters are allocated to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, to help maintain the wild oyster populations crucial for the ecosystem. Smith differentiates between the two purposes, saying: “cultivation is for consumption, while restoration benefits the environment.”
The methodical scraping and sorting offer a chance for deeper conversations about their livelihoods. Ballard conveys the motivation behind their work: “Raising an organism that captures carbon, cleans water, and fosters habitat growth has opened my eyes to the ongoing work needed to keep our environment healthy.”
Summing it up, Smith remarks: “Finding a career that contributes positively to people’s lives is such a joy and honor. Seriously, who doesn’t smile while enjoying oysters?”
Day Two: On the Atlantic
At a dock on the Indian River Lagoon, Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish greets me. As we glide over the crystal-clear waters, she shares her lifelong passion for aquaculture, beginning at age 14 as a volunteer at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center, further supported by her Bachelor of Science degree. “I relish my early morning boat rides, absorbing the sounds and aromas… the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees popping up for air,” she expresses enthusiastically.
Once back at the dock, her team puts on their slickers and starts sorting through the oysters; any that are damaged are tossed back into the shallow waters, where various fish swarm eagerly to feed. Mariano notes the benefits that the farm brings to the local ecosystem, stating, “The oysters provide an impressive vertical habitat for juvenile organisms; it’s truly a self-contained ecosystem. We’ve also generated numerous jobs in our community for individuals of all ages.”
The Challenges
Mortality events and intricate regulations present their own set of challenges, but weather remains the primary hurdle. Hurricanes can devastate the farms, as Smith experienced when he lost an entire year’s crop due to Hurricane Helene. “It demands perseverance, hard work, creativity, resilience, and flexibility. We adapt and keep moving forward,” he explains.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association lends its support, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizing their goal: “Shellfish farmers are some of the most diligent, resilient, and innovative individuals I know. We aim to elevate this thriving industry in the South and encourage people to engage. Taste our Southern oysters, support local farmers, and enjoy the difference.”
Despite the challenges, Ballard of Calusa represents his fellow farmers when he declares, “I wouldn’t exchange this job for any amount of money.”
This article first appeared in the November/December 2025 issue of The Windows Clubs magazine (US edition).
